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The Independent Culture
Fudging the issue

Anyone hooked on fudge probably keeps a tin of sweetened condensed milk as a fall-back - the type of habit for which you hide behind the fridge door.

In Argentina, not only do they dip their fingers into the stuff, they brazenly dollop it on to bread, pancakes, waffles, trifle, bananas, yoghurt and ice cream. The popular brand there, San Ignacio, calls it dulche de leche, or nectar of milk - aka toffee whip.

Brown and vanilla-flavoured, it's stickier, fudgier and thicker than Nestle. The first in a range of dulche de leche products has recently been launched in Tesco superstores and Metros: fudge in a jar, pounds 1.90 for 450g

Supplemental summer

Summer is the season of supplements: BBC Good Food comes with "Good Living with Jane Asher", for example. And we almost had the American Martha Stewart Living, due to launch here to coincide with this month's publication of The Martha Stewart Cookbook (Ebury Press, pounds 25), and still promised for next year.

Stewart takes a sophisticated approach - while Jane Asher gives us chocolate cake and buttercream, Martha recommends crab empanaditas and tea-smoked eggs with sesame salt

Saveur faire

The US is also a good source of the serious cookery magazines that have all but disappeared in this country. For anyone feeling bereft, I recommend Saveur.

Saveur is of the drooling genre, with luscious photography and a list of consulting editors that reads like a cookery Who's Who. Available at $38 per year for six issues from Saveur, PO Box 5433, Harlan, Iowa 51593- 2933 (enquiries, 00-1-212-334 1212). Amex, Visa, Mastercard

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