Bites: Eat the food then buy the book
Where else - apart from the obvious big names - can you follow Morston Hall's lead and eat the food then buy the book?
Saturday 05 October 2002
FishWorks, 6 Green Street, Bath (01225 448707)
Fish enthusiast and chef Mitchell Tonks started in Bath selling fish raw and cooked, and spawned branches in Bristol and Christchurch, Hampshire. His Seafood Café Cook Bookgives recipes for the whole roast sea bass with sea salt and rosemary, and mackerel with ginger, garlic and thyme that appear on the menu. The café is upstairs with a fishmonger below, so pick up a book and the fish and get cooking.
Penrhos Court, Kington, Herefordshire (01544 230720)
For 25 years organic pioneer Daphne Lambert has turned seasonal ingredients into luxuriously good meat-free meals at her medieval manor. She cooks with the vegetables and fruits of her kitchen garden, and damson and walnut trees. Chocolate brownies with walnut ice cream is often on the menu and in her rewarding book Little Red Gooseberries, as is ravioli with goat's cheese and walnuts with spicy tomato sauce. There are also recipes for fish, such as dab with herb and lime crust.
Rasa W1, 6 Dering Street, London W1 (020-7629 1346)
Das Sreedharan, whose shocking-pink-painted Rasa introduced the glorious vegetarian dishes of Kerala to London, has five restaurants and two books to his name. Fresh Flavours of Indiaand New Taste of India contain recipes for dishes like beetroot pachadi, and mango and shrimp curry with mustard seeds and coconut milk, and for the own-made dosas and pickles, drinks and desserts that distinguish his vegetarian and seafood restaurants.
The Real Greek, 15 Hoxton Market, London N1 (020-7739 8212)
Theodore Kyriakou's Hoxton restaurant and mezedes wine bar has done wonders for Greek food. He takes the usual elements and ingredients and refashions them into dishes unrecognisable to the average taverna-goer. Just out in paperback, his Real Greek Food has recipes ranging from staples such as taramasalata and octopus in red wine to Kyriakou's more elaborate interpretations of his homeland's cooking: salad of green peppers and peaches, and squab pigeon with chestnuts and tagliatelle.
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