Fashion: It's a drag

Next week's Pride 98 march will see some serious dressing up and showing off. Melanie Rickey talks to four drag queens, regular Pride-goers, about what fashion - and dressing up - means to them

"WE'RE DRAG QUEENS, honey; it's strictly work, not play," says Kitty Cartier, or Kit, as most of her girlfriends call her. I've just asked her about her attitude to the clothes she dresses up in three nights a week - and I've been put firmly in my place. It turns out she is fibbing: Kitty has been one of the principals at Madame Jo Jo's, London's best- known drag-cabaret club, for four years - and it's obvious she loves every minute of it. Kitty's alter ego, Ian, got the job after a friend saw an advert in The Stage. "I went along to the audition in girl's make- up, two-inch heels, a box jacket and bare legs, and sang 'If They Could See Me Now'," he says. He cringes at his early lack of finesse. "At first it was the wrong dress with the wrong shoes, and the wrong hair with the wrong face. But I can do pretty much anything with my face now."

Kitty and the other Madame Jo Jo's "waitresses" - Evita Cliterata (aka Spanish actor/ dancer Alberto), Purdy (Malcolm) and Lou (David) , who I met as they got ready for an evening's work - all tell the same story. Being a convincing drag queen takes a lot of practice in front of the mirror (they have to use oil-based theatrical cosmetics, as standard ranges don't have enough coverage or pigment). It also demands a working woman's wardrobe of a unique nature. Not for them the easy-wear, easy-care trouser- suit, the throw-on dress, or the outfit that can be dressed up for evening with the addition of a glittering brooch or a snazzy scarf. No, for these gals, work clothes are black lacy bras, G-strings, fishnets, corsets, micro mini-skirts and thigh-high boots, all sourced from second-hand shops and markets, Soho sex shops, or run up at home.

In short, this bunch look like hookers, but that's only because their clothing budget - usually nil - doesn't quite stretch to Thierry Mugler, Vivienne Westwood or Jean Paul Gaultier, whose dramatic and theatrical clothes they all love. As these are perhaps the campest designers on the circuit, the boys' choice is hardly shocking: what's more surprising is that they also love Prada and Gucci. Ask them why, though, and they'll say it's the image of the labels, not the actual clothes, which inspires their final look.

All four say they look at glossy magazines like Elle and Vogue as often as they look at GQ or Arena, and that they aren't into women's fashion in the same way real women are. Ask what it's like to be a man dressing up as a woman and they take pains to point out that it's theatre, not high fashion that has the last word when you're a drag queen. Kitty is inspired by the showiness of Liza Minnelli and Rita Hayworth; Purdy wants to be a bimbo; Lou likes lacy dresses; and Evita admires Jerry Hall, because "she's fierce".

As boys, Ian, Alberto, Malcolm and David dress gay, because they are gay, but there is very little that would indicate their nocturnal pursuits. Alberto wears an orange jumper and dance leggings with trainers, his daily get-up for auditions. Ian's wearing an Adidas top, trainers and Diesel jeans. "I'm contemporary as Ian; Kitty is much more glam and sexy in a Rita Hayworth kind of way," he says. Malcolm flounces around the club in ripped Levi's and a checked shirt - "I always wear this stuff"; David, the most conservative, wears a pristine white Gap T-shirt, and dark Levi's with Redwing boots. He's far more into mens' fashion labels than women's.

Once in front of the backstage mirror, however, the pre-show atmosphere gets very girlie. Feather boas and sequins fly, bras are stuffed, wigs are drowned in hairspray, and crotch areas are "tidied" with the help of flesh tights covered by fishnets, and a raunchy G-string to create the endless legs. Once the transformation is complete, all the "girls" are unrecognisable. Dance steps are run through, wigs and boobs are fixed in place, and everyone asks "Do I look alright?" through perfect, glittery pouts. It's show time.

! Pride 98: Clapham Common, SW4, Sat; for tickets call 0870 121 0121. 'Return to Planet Jo Jo': Madame Jo Jo's, W1 (0171 734 2473) every Thurs, Fri and Sat.

Captions: PURDY (ABOVE AND BELOW LEFT)

"Today I'm into a bit of Vivienne Westwood corsetry, an Edwardian bustle mini-skirt, and patent thigh-high boots. Purdy is a bimbo, she's up for a good time; she buys her undies from Marks & Spencer, gets intimidated in Chanel, but not in Harvey Nichols, and loves haute couture. Unfortunately she always ends up getting her stuff in Soho, like all good-time girls."

EVITA CLITERATA (LEFT AND BELOW RIGHT)

"For me fashion is about flamboyance. I go to Prada and Vivienne Westwood to try on womens clothes, then make my own things. I'm a dress size 10, but my feet are too big for women's shoes, so I buy Fredericks of Hollywood mules. I'd say I'm a Gaultier boy and a Mugler girl; but I never wish I was a real girl. I have the best of both worlds."

KITTY CARTIER (ABOVE, BELOW LEFT, AND OPENING PAGE)

"Kitty's biggest extravagance is shoes. She loves a good stiletto. I went into Gucci the other week to try on the most fabulous pair of sequin stilettos with silver heels - the staff are either into boys trying shoes on or not, and they were cool at Gucci. I loved the stilettos of course, but when I looked at the price, pounds 390, I could have died."

LOU (RIGHT AND BELOW RIGHT)

"If I was a woman I'd like to be Cindy Crawford. Well, maybe just for the day. Lou is mad, very drag and definitely not a tranny. More of a tomboy really. I borrow all my clothes from the other girls. This is my favourite outfit: white thigh-high boots, and a tarty backless dress so I can show a bit of arse and a bit of chest."

Arts and Entertainment
Legendary blues and rock singer Joe Cocker has died of lung cancer, his management team as confirmed. He was 70
music The singer has died aged 70
Arts and Entertainment
Maisie Williams looks concerned as Arya Stark
tv
Arts and Entertainment
photography Incredible images show London's skyline from its highest points
Arts and Entertainment
'Silent Night' last topped Classic FM's favourite Christmas carol poll in 2002
classical
Arts and Entertainment
Caroline Flack became the tenth winner of Strictly Come Dancing
tv 'Absolutely phenomenal' Xtra Factor presenter wins Strictly Come Dancing final
PROMOTED VIDEO
Arts and Entertainment
Rhys says: 'I'm not playing it for laughs, but I have learnt that if you fall over on stage, people can enjoy that as much as an amazing guitar solo'
musicGruff Rhys on his rock odyssey, and the trouble with independence
Arts and Entertainment
Krysia and Daniel (Hand out press photograph provided by Sally Richardson)
How do today's composers answer the challenge of the classical giant?
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Arts and Entertainment

ebooksNow available in paperback
Arts and Entertainment

ebooks
News
Shenaz Treasurywala
film
News
tv
Arts and Entertainment
Jason Watkins as Christopher Jefferies
tv
Arts and Entertainment
Star Wars Director JJ Abrams: key character's names have been revealed
film
Arts and Entertainment
Pharrell Williams won two BBC Music Awards for Best Song and International Artist
music
Arts and Entertainment
Mark, Katie and Sanjay in The Apprentice boardroom
TV
Arts and Entertainment

Film The critics but sneer but these unfashionable festive films are our favourites

Arts and Entertainment
Frances O'Connor and James Nesbitt in 'The Missing'

TV We're so close to knowing what happened to Oliver Hughes, but a last-minute bluff crushes expectations

Arts and Entertainment
Joey Essex will be hitting the slopes for series two of The Jump

TV

Who is taking the plunge?
Arts and Entertainment
Katy Perry as an Ancient Egyptian princess in her latest music video for 'Dark Horse'

music
Arts and Entertainment
Dame Judi Dench, as M in Skyfall

film
Arts and Entertainment
Morrissey, 1988

TV
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?

ES Rentals

    Independent Dating
    and  

    By clicking 'Search' you
    are agreeing to our
    Terms of Use.

    Isis in Iraq: Yazidi girls killing themselves to escape rape and imprisonment by militants

    'Jilan killed herself in the bathroom. She cut her wrists and hanged herself'

    Yazidi girls killing themselves to escape rape and imprisonment
    Ed Balls interview: 'If I think about the deficit when I'm playing the piano, it all goes wrong'

    Ed Balls interview

    'If I think about the deficit when I'm playing the piano, it all goes wrong'
    He's behind you, dude!

    US stars in UK panto

    From David Hasselhoff to Jerry Hall
    Grace Dent's Christmas Quiz: What are you – a festive curmudgeon or top of the tree?

    Grace Dent's Christmas Quiz

    What are you – a festive curmudgeon or top of the tree?
    Nasa planning to build cloud cities in airships above Venus

    Nasa planning to build cloud cities in airships above Venus

    Planet’s surface is inhospitable to humans but 30 miles above it is almost perfect
    Surrounded by high-rise flats is a little house filled with Lebanon’s history - clocks, rifles, frogmen’s uniforms and colonial helmets

    Clocks, rifles, swords, frogmen’s uniforms

    Surrounded by high-rise flats is a little house filled with Lebanon’s history
    Return to Gaza: Four months on, the wounds left by Israel's bombardment have not yet healed

    Four months after the bombardment, Gaza’s wounds are yet to heal

    Kim Sengupta is reunited with a man whose plight mirrors the suffering of the Palestinian people
    Gastric surgery: Is it really the answer to the UK's obesity epidemic?

    Is gastric surgery really the answer to the UK's obesity epidemic?

    Critics argue that it’s crazy to operate on healthy people just to stop them eating
    Homeless Veterans appeal: Christmas charity auction Part 2 - now LIVE

    Homeless Veterans appeal: Christmas charity auction

    Bid on original art, or trips of a lifetime to Africa or the 'Corrie' set, and help Homeless Veterans
    Pantomime rings the changes to welcome autistic theatre-goers

    Autism-friendly theatre

    Pantomime leads the pack in quest to welcome all
    The week Hollywood got scared and had to grow up a bit

    The week Hollywood got scared and had to grow up a bit

    Sony suffered a chorus of disapproval after it withdrew 'The Interview', but it's not too late for it to take a stand, says Joan Smith
    From Widow Twankey to Mother Goose, how do the men who play panto dames get themselves ready for the performance of a lifetime?

    Panto dames: before and after

    From Widow Twankey to Mother Goose, how do the men who play panto dames get themselves ready for the performance of a lifetime?
    Thirties murder mystery novel is surprise runaway Christmas hit

    Thirties murder mystery novel is surprise runaway Christmas hit

    Booksellers say readers are turning away from dark modern thrillers and back to the golden age of crime writing
    Anne-Marie Huby: 'Charities deserve the best,' says founder of JustGiving

    Anne-Marie Huby: 'Charities deserve the best'

    Ten million of us have used the JustGiving website to donate to good causes. Its co-founder says that being dynamic is as important as being kind
    The botanist who hunts for giant trees at Kew Gardens

    The man who hunts giants

    A Kew Gardens botanist has found 25 new large tree species - and he's sure there are more out there