AT THE Paris shows, the glums cheered up. Ann Demeulemeester added colour to the monochrome palette, and so made her long, languid clothes easier to wear. Plum, aubergine, apple and mushroom satins perked up her vestal virgins. Marcel Marongiu also added colour. For next spring, his short asymmetrical little sweaters, his shifts, his rigorously plain jackets will be cranberry and a rich royal blue. Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garcons, on the other hand, returned to white after this winter's rich, dark colour, but did add in underwear tones - oyster, salmon pink, honey brown. By contrast, Kawakubo's protege, Junya Watanabe, steered a clear path towards vibrant colour, including hot-pink mohair. Romeo Gigli's collection was a feast of golden browns, midnight blues and weathered earth tones. The look was of wood nymphs bathing at some silvan pool, although his jackets and Havana- striped trousers will be easier for real people to wear.
Top row, from left: four from Ann Demeulemeester in layers of brocade and satin, bold stripes and, once again, the big white shirt.
Middle row, from left: two more from Ann Demeulemeester; Comme des Garcons' Grecian theme, with gathered-back tunic and cross-wrapped sleeveless dress.
Bottom row, from left: Junya Watanabe, Rei Kawakubo's protege, borrowed from football strips to make his statement; more draping with Kawakubo's black muslin tunic over white long dress; Romeo Gigli's twisted sarong skirt with rich cream striped brocade blazer