i work for ...; Zandra Rhodes

Zoe Penn is PA to the fashion designer.

I come from Chatham in Kent, where Zandra was born, and I went to the same grammar school as her. I became interested in her work during my A-levels. It inspired me to see how far she'd got without a privileged background, and I was astonished to discover that she is the daughter of a lorry driver.

I met her when I went to her studio in Hammersmith to interview her for a project I was writing on her work. I was terrified of meeting her, expecting her to be wearing full make-up and be dressed to the nines. Instead I found her alone in her office under a pile of paperwork, with no make- up on and dressed in a practical yellow jump suit with a waistband containing scissors and designers' tools. She was very down-to-earth and calmed me down immediately.

I'm only 23, so I was still in nappies during the punk scene, but when I saw the pictures from the period I was amazed at how innovative it all was, particularly the clothes Zandra was designing. She struck me as being as much of an artist as a designer; her watercolours feed directly into her prints, and she has never been afraid to let her prints govern the shape and size of the dress. I don't think that designing has ever been done in this way before.

While I was doing a fashion course I wrote to her to ask her if she'd take me on for work experience and she agreed. I felt confident with her; we worked together in a small team in a family atmosphere, with Zandra cooking for us when we needed feeding. To her workers she's always been known as "Mummy". I also did a fashion show with her at Dickens and Jones, working backstage as a dresser. It was a fast and exciting experience, particularly when Honor Blackman came to see us backstage.

I also lived with Zandra for three months. It was hard going getting up at 6.30am and coming back from work at 9.30, but we became close and I realised how hard she has worked to get where she is.

She is only able to spend half her time in the UK - this means that when she's here she has to fit 100 per cent of her work into half the time it would usually take. The rest of her time she spends in her studio in California. She has helpers who work through the night with her, and she rarely goes to bed before 3am. She's usually up all night faxing California, because she needs to keep in constant touch with her other studio. She lives on three hours sleep a night, which amazes everyone who works for her. The remarkable thing is that she doesn't seem to get tired. She can get ratty at times, but you just have to let it go above your head. I'm the kind of person who avoids arguments anyway; having a row doesn't achieve anything, and if she blows her top it's just for a few minutes. There have been occasions when we've told her to lie down, almost strapping her to the bed. But as long as she's busy she seems to pull herself through. She says that she likes being surrounded by young people because she finds them inspiring. Although she's often out in the evening she doesn't really like leaving us and will come back at midnight and start working again. She also lives for her friends, who include the sculptor Andrew Logan and the painter Duggie Fields.

My job changes from day to day, but it includes driving Zandra to the airport, lending out garments to magazines who need them for retrospective features on, say, the Seventies, and giving the students their tasks when Zandra's away. She usually has three to four students living in her flat above the offices, which helps to make the studio a friendly environment in which to work.

We recently moved the studio to Bermondsey, where Zandra intends to house the Museum of Fashion and Textiles. We had to dismantle all the equipment and storage units, which was hard going - loading everything from print tables to screens into Zandra's small van. Since I became involved in the setting up of the museum I have been responsible for co-ordinating the board meetings, keeping the trustees up-to-date on progress, writing up the minutes from meetings, cataloguing the clothes and liaising with designers like Mary Quant and the Jean Muir studio over the images for the catalogue. It's fascinating to watch the project evolve, particularly since it will be the first museum of its kind in the UK. When we were refused Lottery funding for the museum it was a real disappointment, but it didn't put Zandra off, it just made her all the more determined to get funding from private investors.

I've changed as a person since I've worked for Zandra. I've become more confident. I no longer get flustered if someone like Joanna Lumley calls up or Lulu answers her mobile from the dentist's chair. I feel I can now accept celebrities as ordinary people, a skill which came in useful when I was recently asked to organise Zandra's party to celebrate her receiving a CBE.

Zandra isn't really an eccentric person herself, and when you are working for her you don't have to pretend to be something you're not. I'm not a trained secretary and I would be bored sitting at a computer all day. I very much like the creative side of my work and I'm willing to do anything. I've encountered so much variety within this job that I feel that in the future I could branch out in many different ways; I certainly don't feel that I've been steered in one direction. But it's nice to go back to Kent to the home I share with my parents at the end of the day and relax away from it all.

I've been proud to be part of Zandra's work and I wouldn't want to leave her until I saw the museum open, which is scheduled for the year 2000. Whenever I work at one of Zandra's shows now I join the audience in time to see everyone applaud her arrival on stage. It always gives me a huge sense of admiration for her.

Interview by Katie Sampson

Arts and Entertainment

eurovision
Arts and Entertainment
Fearne Cotton is leaving Radio 1 after a decade

radio
Arts and Entertainment
The light stuff: Britt Robertson and George Clooney in ‘Tomorrowland: a World Beyond’
film review
Arts and Entertainment
Reawakening: can Jon Hamm’s Don Draper find enlightenment in the final ‘Mad Men’?
tv reviewNot quite, but it's an enlightening finale for Don Draper spoiler alert
Arts and Entertainment
Breakfast Show’s Nick Grimshaw

Radio
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Arts and Entertainment

ebooksNow available in paperback
Arts and Entertainment

ebooks
Arts and Entertainment
I am flute: Azeem Ward and his now-famous instrument
music
Arts and Entertainment
A glass act: Dr Chris van Tulleken (left) and twin Xand get set for their drinking challenge
TV review
Arts and Entertainment
MIA perform at Lovebox 2014 in London Fields, Hackney

music
Arts and Entertainment
Finnish punk band PKN hope to enter Eurovision 2015 and raise awareness for Down's Syndrome

eurovision
Arts and Entertainment
William Shakespeare on the cover of John Gerard's The Herball or Generall Historie of Plantes

books
Arts and Entertainment

Game of Thrones review
Arts and Entertainment
Grayson Perry dedicates his Essex home to Julie

Potter's attempt to create an Essex Taj Mahal was a lovely treat

tv
Arts and Entertainment
A scene from the original Swedish version of the sci-fi TV drama ‘Real Humans’
tv
Arts and Entertainment
Hugh Keays-Byrne plays Immortan Joe, the terrifying gang leader, in the new film
filmActor who played Toecutter returns - but as a different villain in reboot
Arts and Entertainment
Charlize Theron as Imperator Furiosa in Mad Max: Fury Road
film
Arts and Entertainment
Jessica Hynes in W1A
tvReview: Perhaps the creators of W1A should lay off the copy and paste function spoiler alert
Arts and Entertainment
Power play: Mitsuko Uchida in concert

classical
Arts and Entertainment
Dangerous liaisons: Dominic West, Jake Richard Siciliano, Maura Tierney and Leya Catlett in ‘The Affair’ – a contradictory drama but one which is sure to reel the viewers in
TV review
Arts and Entertainment
Richard Herring, pictured performing at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival two years ago
comedy
Arts and Entertainment
Music freak: Max Runham in the funfair band
theatre
Arts and Entertainment
film 'I felt under-used by Hollywood'
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?

ES Rentals

    Independent Dating
    and  

    By clicking 'Search' you
    are agreeing to our
    Terms of Use.

    Sun, sex and an anthropological study: One British academic's summer of hell in Magaluf

    Sun, sex and an anthropological study

    One academic’s summer of hell in Magaluf
    From Shakespeare to Rising Damp... to Vicious

    Frances de la Tour's 50-year triumph

    'Rising Damp' brought De la Tour such recognition that she could be forgiven if she'd never been able to move on. But at 70, she continues to flourish - and to beguile
    'That Whitsun, I was late getting away...'

    Ian McMillan on the Whitsun Weddings

    This weekend is Whitsun, and while the festival may no longer resonate, Larkin's best-loved poem, lives on - along with the train journey at the heart of it
    Kathryn Williams explores the works and influences of Sylvia Plath in a new light

    Songs from the bell jar

    Kathryn Williams explores the works and influences of Sylvia Plath
    How one man's day in high heels showed him that Cannes must change its 'no flats' policy

    One man's day in high heels

    ...showed him that Cannes must change its 'flats' policy
    Is a quiet crusade to reform executive pay bearing fruit?

    Is a quiet crusade to reform executive pay bearing fruit?

    Dominic Rossi of Fidelity says his pressure on business to control rewards is working. But why aren’t other fund managers helping?
    The King David Hotel gives precious work to Palestinians - unless peace talks are on

    King David Hotel: Palestinians not included

    The King David is special to Jerusalem. Nick Kochan checked in and discovered it has some special arrangements, too
    More people moving from Australia to New Zealand than in the other direction for first time in 24 years

    End of the Aussie brain drain

    More people moving from Australia to New Zealand than in the other direction for first time in 24 years
    Meditation is touted as a cure for mental instability but can it actually be bad for you?

    Can meditation be bad for you?

    Researching a mass murder, Dr Miguel Farias discovered that, far from bringing inner peace, meditation can leave devotees in pieces
    Eurovision 2015: Australians will be cheering on their first-ever entrant this Saturday

    Australia's first-ever Eurovision entrant

    Australia, a nation of kitsch-worshippers, has always loved the Eurovision Song Contest. Maggie Alderson says it'll fit in fine
    Letterman's final Late Show: Laughter, but no tears, as David takes his bow after 33 years

    Laughter, but no tears, as Letterman takes his bow after 33 years

    Veteran talkshow host steps down to plaudits from four presidents
    Ivor Novello Awards 2015: Hozier wins with anti-Catholic song 'Take Me To Church' as John Whittingdale leads praise for Black Sabbath

    Hozier's 'blasphemous' song takes Novello award

    Singer joins Ed Sheeran and Clean Bandit in celebration of the best in British and Irish music
    Tequila gold rush: The spirit has gone from a cheap shot to a multi-billion pound product

    Join the tequila gold rush

    The spirit has gone from a cheap shot to a multi-billion pound product
    12 best statement wallpapers

    12 best statement wallpapers

    Make an impact and transform a room with a conversation-starting pattern
    Paul Scholes column: Does David De Gea really want to leave Manchester United to fight it out for the No 1 spot at Real Madrid?

    Paul Scholes column

    Does David De Gea really want to leave Manchester United to fight it out for the No 1 spot at Real Madrid?