Market Place: Bradford

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The Independent Culture
For the epicures of Normandy, Hong Kong, Madrid and Lima, tripe is a treat. But the English wrinkle their noses at innards. Squeamishness, it seems, has now spread to that home of hearty food, Yorkshire, and contributed to the demise of Hey's Tripe Stall at Bradford's Rawson Place indoor market. Hey's had revelled in offal, making prize-winning black puddings.

But Rawson market still has its traditions, and traders and customers still eat their high-noon dinner at the Pie & Peas caff. A small helping of pie and peas costs 80p: mint sauce is sprinkled over the lot, and a mug of tea washes everything down. Ambrosia.

Meat is a mainstay of the Rawson, with more than two dozen butchers vying for custom. The widest range of cured pork is sold at Slava stores, an east European delicatessen. The Rawson's fish market is equally alluring: stalls with glistening salmon, crustaceans on crushed ice, and oddities such as sand eels ( pounds 1.75 per lb).

Bradford is a market-goer's Mecca, for the Rawson is only one of three large marts. The Kirkgate has clothing and haberdashery, while John Street market includes the pungent Curry Corner, with piles of elderly and wondrous tins from India and China.

And should you still be mourning for Hey's Tripe Stall, take heart (but, sadly, no stomach): another of Britain's disappearing glories can still be found at the Rawson: fresh gooseberries.

Rawson Place Market: 8am-5pm Mon, Tues; 8am-1pm Wed; 8am-6pm Thur-Sat, Bradford, West Yorkshire

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