Seaside and countryside blend at Yarmouth. The market flourishes in summer, when caravans full of fish and chips, Yarmouth rock, hot doughnuts and tooth-breaking toffee are parked under the newly completed shelters, while the makeshift stalls of market gardeners have to contend with the elements (last week a burning-hot sun). But the most intriguing caravan attracts northern factory workers on their wakes-week holidays. 'Nichol's' tripe stall is for the connoisseur of bovine intestines, selling four types of cow's stomach: reed, jot, weasand and honeycomb; along with chitterling, the pig's interior tubing. Doing better business in fast food is Salmon Enterprises, where nothing but pies and mushy peas is doled out. The green-yellow liquid is served steaming in mugs, to be sprinkled liberally with mint sauce.
Yarmouth market stretches almost up to the 18th-century 'hospital for decayed fishermen'. Workaday clothes, haberdashery, tools and pet foods are snapped up by locals, but the gloriously vile knick-knacks - large spoons with little teddies stuck to them; car stickers of the 'Whoops, I've farted' school of subtlety - belong to the candy-floss world that is forever the English holiday resort.
Great Yarmouth, Norfolk; 8am-4.30pm Wed, Sat in winter; Wed, Fri, Sat in summerReuse content