Restaurant: Where shall we eat fish?

One-o-One is an odd-looking restaurant, one of those places that everyone must have noticed from the back of a taxi going up Knightsbridge, crouched down as it is beneath the rather overwhelming tower-block looks of the Sheraton Park Tower, but few have noted down in their diaries to go in. It looks like the sort of place that will be swarming with well- to-do Americans who are staying upstairs and don't feel adventurous enough to venture out into the big, bad city but will probably, none the less, have a good deal to say about it at the table next to you.

Actually, it's nicer inside than outside; the service is immaculate and unhurried, and it's quite good fun watching the sprawl of traffic along one of London's more crowded thoroughfares without being able to hear it.

It is primarily a business restaurant and, as such, is impressive - done out in dark marine colours, reflective materials and ultra-clean linen - but unromantic. And one of life's great mysteries is how anyone can keep a clear head and consume all the cream business diners seem to like. This is especially odd when you take into account that this is a fish restaurant. Chef Pascal Proyart, who came to the Sheraton Park Tower via L'Orangerie in Brussels and the Sea Grill Le Divellec in Paris, seems to have fallen in love with the sea bass.

Every chef has a right to have a favoured ingredient, but five-odd versions of the same fish is over-egging the pudding a bit. Starters were splendid - roasted sea scallops with wild mushrooms and pan-fried foie gras were delicious, though very filling - but, being one of the many who finds that sea bass once a year is plenty, I was stumped for a main course. It seemed churlish to choose from the small selection of meat dishes in a fish restaurant, so I had the bass, mostly by default. It had a nice crisp skin and the least rich sauce I could find, but still left me groaning.

One-o-One, William Street, London SW1 (0171-290 7101)

FISH-U-LIKE

Livebait 41-45 The Cut, SE1 (0171-928 7211)

Sweetings 39 Queen Victoria St, EC4 (0171-248 3962)

Back to Basics 21a Foley St, W1 (0171-436 2181)

Downstairs at One Ninety 190 Queensgate, SW7 (0171-581 5666)

PROMOTED VIDEO
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent
Travel Shop
the manor
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on city breaks Find out more
santorini
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on chic beach resorts Find out more
sardina foodie
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on country retreats Find out more
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?

ES Rentals

    Independent Dating
    and  

    By clicking 'Search' you
    are agreeing to our
    Terms of Use.

    Dress the Gaza situation up all you like, but the truth hurts

    Robert Fisk on Gaza conflict

    Dress the situation up all you like, but the truth hurts
    Save the tiger: Tiger, tiger burning less brightly as numbers plummet

    Tiger, tiger burning less brightly

    When William Blake wrote his famous poem there were probably more than 100,000 tigers in the wild. These days they probably number around 3,200
    5 News's Andy Bell retraces his grandfather's steps on the First World War battlefields

    In grandfather's footsteps

    5 News's political editor Andy Bell only knows his grandfather from the compelling diary he kept during WWI. But when he returned to the killing fields where Edwin Vaughan suffered so much, his ancestor came to life
    Lifestyle guru Martha Stewart reveals she has flying robot ... to take photos of her farm

    Martha Stewart has flying robot

    The lifestyle guru used the drone to get a bird's eye view her 153-acre farm in Bedford, New York
    Former Labour minister Meg Hillier has demanded 'pootling lanes' for women cyclists

    Do women cyclists need 'pootling lanes'?

    Simon Usborne (who's more of a hurtler) explains why winning the space race is key to happy riding
    A tale of two presidents: George W Bush downs his paintbrush to pen father’s life story

    A tale of two presidents

    George W Bush downs his paintbrush to pen father’s life story
    Restaurateur Mitch Tonks has given the Great Western Pullman dining car a makeover

    The dining car makes a comeback

    Restaurateur Mitch Tonks has given the Great Western Pullman dining car a makeover
    Gallery rage: How are institutions tackling the discomfort of overcrowding this summer?

    Gallery rage

    How are institutions tackling the discomfort of overcrowding this summer?
    Louis van Gaal has £500,000 video surveillance system installed to monitor Manchester United players

    Eye on the prize

    Louis van Gaal has £500,000 video surveillance system installed to monitor Manchester United players
    Women's rugby: Tamara Taylor adds fuel to the ire in quest to land World Cup

    Women's rugby

    Tamara Taylor adds fuel to the ire in quest to land World Cup
    Save the tiger: The day America’s love of backyard tigers led to a horrific bloodbath

    The day America’s love of backyard tigers led to a horrific bloodbath

    With only six per cent of the US population of these amazing big cats held in zoos, the Zanesville incident in 2011 was inevitable
    Samuel Beckett's biographer reveals secrets of the writer's time as a French Resistance spy

    How Samuel Beckett became a French Resistance spy

    As this year's Samuel Beckett festival opens in Enniskillen, James Knowlson, recalls how the Irish writer risked his life for liberty and narrowly escaped capture by the Gestapo
    We will remember them: relatives still honour those who fought in the Great War

    We will remember them

    Relatives still honour those who fought in the Great War
    Star Wars Episode VII is being shot on film - and now Kodak is launching a last-ditch bid to keep celluloid alive

    Kodak's last-ditch bid to keep celluloid alive

    Director J J Abrams and a few digital refuseniks shoot movies on film. Simon Usborne wonders what the fuss is about
    Once stilted and melodramatic, Hollywood is giving acting in video games a makeover

    Acting in video games gets a makeover

    David Crookes meets two of the genre's most popular voices