Restaurant: Where shall we eat fish?
Saturday 01 May 1999
Actually, it's nicer inside than outside; the service is immaculate and unhurried, and it's quite good fun watching the sprawl of traffic along one of London's more crowded thoroughfares without being able to hear it.
It is primarily a business restaurant and, as such, is impressive - done out in dark marine colours, reflective materials and ultra-clean linen - but unromantic. And one of life's great mysteries is how anyone can keep a clear head and consume all the cream business diners seem to like. This is especially odd when you take into account that this is a fish restaurant. Chef Pascal Proyart, who came to the Sheraton Park Tower via L'Orangerie in Brussels and the Sea Grill Le Divellec in Paris, seems to have fallen in love with the sea bass.
Every chef has a right to have a favoured ingredient, but five-odd versions of the same fish is over-egging the pudding a bit. Starters were splendid - roasted sea scallops with wild mushrooms and pan-fried foie gras were delicious, though very filling - but, being one of the many who finds that sea bass once a year is plenty, I was stumped for a main course. It seemed churlish to choose from the small selection of meat dishes in a fish restaurant, so I had the bass, mostly by default. It had a nice crisp skin and the least rich sauce I could find, but still left me groaning.
One-o-One, William Street, London SW1 (0171-290 7101)
Livebait 41-45 The Cut, SE1 (0171-928 7211)
Sweetings 39 Queen Victoria St, EC4 (0171-248 3962)
Back to Basics 21a Foley St, W1 (0171-436 2181)
Downstairs at One Ninety 190 Queensgate, SW7 (0171-581 5666)
Watch the new House of Cards series three trailerTV
Oscars 2015It was the first time Barney has compered the Academy Awards
Oscars 2015 From Meryl Streep whooping Patricia Arquette's equality speech to Chris Pine in tears
Oscars 2015 Mexican filmmaker uses speech to urge 'respect' for immigrants
TV ReviewThe intrigue deepens as we delve further but don't expect any answers just yet
Razzies 2015 Golden Raspberry Awards 'honours' Cameron Diaz and Kirk Cameron
Arts & Ents blogs
- 1 This restaurant has misunderstood the concept of 'cheese and biscuits'
- 2 Delhi bus rapist blames dead victim for attack because 'girls are responsible for rape'
- 3 PornHub turns masturbation into energy in bid to save the planet
- 4 Have sex with your iPad thanks to the new sex toy no-one asked for
- 5 The 'sex selfie stick' lets you FaceTime the inside of a vagina
Broadchurch series 3: David Tennant and Olivia Colman to return for third season, ITV confirms
Poldark star Heida Reed says show is not that racy: 'I don't think a single bodice gets ripped'
Harris' List of Covent Garden Ladies: Georgian guide to London sex workers acquired by Wellcome Collection
House of Cards season 3: Claire Underwood is based on an eagle, says Robin Wright
Game of Thrones season 5 spoilers: What we can expect according to George RR Martin's books
New theory could prove how life began and disprove God
This is what it's like to be dead, according to a guy who died for a bit
'Jihadi John': CAGE representative storms off Sky News accusing Kay Burley of Islamophobia
Ukip would cut billions from Scottish budget to fund English tax cuts
End of the licence fee: BBC to back radical overhaul of how it is funded
Nearly 100,000 of Britain's poorest children go hungry after parents' benefits are cut