Restaurants: Bar fly

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The Independent Culture
Prince Alfred Formosa Street, London W9 (0171-286 3027)

This pub is a work of art. It has a series of tiny salons, like the old first-class railway carriages, each separated by tiny, three-foot-high doors and frosted "snob screens". Beware if you arrange to meet friends here: you can spend hours drinking in the Alfred without ever finding each other, as the cosy enclosures have their own approaches - little hatches of rotating glass screens - and exits to and from the bar. The whole place is covered by one of those brown, 3-D Victorian ceilings, and during the summer the enormous windows make it feel as if you're drinking in a solarium.

The open half of the pub has a pool table, and a large screen for sport addicts. The bar offers the normal fare, as well as one of the cheapest pints in London: the Prince Alfred bitter at pounds 1.50. Pub nosh is available between 12 to 3 and 6 to 9.

If you time your visit to coincide with the arrival of the local newspaper vendor, expect to be chased through those dwarf doors by his ever-affectionate bulldog, Buster.

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