Restaurants: Where shall we meet in Blackheath
Saturday 09 January 1999
Chapter Two is the younger sister of Chapter One, the deservedly popular restaurant in Farnborough, Kent, whose chef, John Wood, is the guy who shows Gloria Hunniford how to cook on Channel Five in the afternoons. He is also executive chef at Chapter Two. But the real responsibility for the food lies with Adrian Jones, who has come up to stardom via spells with Gary, Nico, Pierre and Bruno. Now he produces West End modern-European cuisine at suburban prices to the foodies of the South East. His three- course dinner menu at pounds 22.50 is terrific value.
The only problem is that, if you've been brought up to finish what's on your plate, the helpings are so large it's hard to do justice to the puddings. And this is a restaurant that knows its puddings. Then again, the business types around us seemed to have no problems at all. After pork knuckle ravioli with wild mushrooms and truffle dressing (a great combination of the rustic and the urbane) and a confit of rabbit that actually consisted of a juicy flank and some delicate vegetables, we had roast brill with chorizo cabbage - its skin like those posh crisps you always decide you can't afford in the corner shop - and a confit of salmon with pea risotto, roast artichokes and shallot butter: Adrian likes his vegetables, and makes much of them. And then we were too stuffed to have more than two bites each of puds that you would stomp on your granny to get to in the normal course of things. Hot chocolate waffles came with an iced orange parfait and citrus compote: a combination of sweet and sharp, hot and cold, crunchy and smooth that must have taken long, hard thinking. The chocolate tart, chocolate-chip and cherry ice-cream was so rich in its main ingredient I was hyperactive all afternoon, frightening little children on Blackheath station with my aeroplane noises. Why do puddings have to come at the end of meals? It's so unfair.
Chapter Two, 43/45 Montpelier Vale, Blackheath Village, London SE3 (0181-333 2666)
Review: A panoramic account of the hacking scandalbooks
Arts & Ents blogs
- 1 Sabina Altynbekova, the girl branded 'too good looking' for volleyball, says social media obsession with her is a 'bit much'
- 2 Disney heiress Abigail disowns her share of family profits in West Bank company
- 3 The secret report that helps Israel hide facts
- 4 Israel's propaganda machine is finally starting to misfire
- 5 'Hello mum, this is going to be hard for you to read ...'
New Netflix releases: Films and TV shows coming August 2014
Samuel Beckett's biographer reveals secrets of the writer's time as a French Resistance spy
Star Wars Episode 7: Simon Pegg hints at role
Guardians of the Galaxy - review: A superficial and half-hearted Marvel film
R Kelly dropped from Ohio music festival following backlash
The secret report that helps Israel hide facts
Land for gas: Merkel and Putin discussed secret deal could end Ukraine crisis
Woman and two children killed by mob in riots over 'blasphemous' Facebook post in Pakistan
A day in the life of Vladimir Putin: The dictator in his labyrinth
Putin is 'thuggish, dishonest and reckless', says British ambassador to US
Richard Dawkins tweets: 'Date rape is bad, stranger rape is worse'
- < Previous
- Next >