Restaurants: Where shall we meet in Piccadilly?
Saturday 17 April 1999
At a rumoured cost of pounds 500,000, the former Terrace Garden overlooking Piccadilly (well, at least you can see the tops of the double deckers) has been remodelled to house a new brasserie from Parisian chef-restaurateur, Michel Rostang.
Now, there are brasseries and brasseries. This isn't the sort of brasserie where you get a baguette sandwich with fries: it's what you and I would call a restaurant. Rostang long since earned two Michelin stars at his flagship restaurant, but branched out into less formal, and less restricted, cooking by launching a series of bistrots (he has four in all) across the city, all of which have gone a bomb. Rostang's food is, primarily, fun: amusing simplicity and an interest in vegetables that would probably have a Michelin judge throwing his hands up and saying "bof!".
We had a truffle sandwich - essentially a grand, buttery toastie filled with more truffles than I've ever seen before - which was probably the single most sybaritic piece of food to pass my lips. It's one of those thing that's only available seasonally, at a seasonally varying price, but anyone who gets to taste it is a lucky bunny.
Terrace is one of those deceptively simple, informal joints: more sofa than tablecloth, more natural light than chandelier. It's guaranteed to appeal to the chrome set, but the atmosphere is relaxed enough, and tables spaced widely enough, that this shouldn't put you off.
At roughly pounds 70-pounds 75 for two with wine, it's still posh-date territory, but a good way of getting a feeling of haute without the palaver that goes with it.
Terrace, Le Meridien Piccadilly, 21 Piccadilly, W1 (0171-465 1642)
LUNCH IN W1
Bulloch's (eclectic) The Athaneum, 116 Piccadilly, W1 (0171-499 3464)
Diverso (Italian) 85 Piccadilly, W1 (0171-491 2222)
Caviar House (fish eggs) 161 Piccadilly, W1 (0171-409 0445)
Fakhreldine (Lebanese) 85 Piccadilly, W1 (0171-493 3424)
Art Piece taken off website amid 'severe security alert'
Maisie Williams single-handedly rises to the challengeTV
Academy criticised after no non-white actors nominated
tvAn expose of hooliganism masquerading as an ideological battle
artLee Hadwin can't draw when he's awake, but by night he's an artist
Arts & Ents blogs
- 1 Paris attacks: Do not call Charlie Hebdo killers 'terrorists', BBC says
- 2 Man who held up 'hire me' sign at Waterloo station returns a year later with 'I'm hiring' sign
- 3 UK weather: Snow to fall in the coming week with sub-zero temperatures to last until early February
- 4 Saudi preacher who 'raped and tortured' his five -year-old daughter to death is released after paying 'blood money'
- 5 The enemy within: People who hear voices in their heads are being encouraged to talk back
Mr Selfridge series 3: Actress Kara Tointon says 'we're starting to see his demise'
Benedict Cumberbatch says Hollywood is better for black British actors
Sia apologises for 'Elastic Heart' music video that sees Shia LaBeouf wrestle 12-year-old Maddie Ziegler
V&A removes depiction of Prophet Mohamed from website amid 'severe security alert'
Game of Thrones season 5: IMAX releases new trailer with first look footage of Tyrion Lannister
Nigel Farage: NHS might have to be replaced by private health insurance
'We would evict Queen from Buckingham Palace and allocate her council house,' say Greens
French court convicts three over homophobic tweets, in case hailed as a 'significant victory' by LGBT rights campaigners
Greece elections: Syriza and EU on collision course after election win for left-wing party
George Galloway condemns 'racist, Islamophobic, hypocritical rag' Charlie Hebdo at freedom of speech rally
British Muslim school children suffering a backlash of abuse following Paris attacks