Restaurants: Where shall we meet in SW3? by Serena Mackesy
Saturday 20 March 1999
They can't be the most rewarding people to cook for. They may look good, and they may be sophisticated diners, but it must be depressing to see so many plates come back to the kitchen with just a couple of mouthfuls eaten.
Massey's food is a combination of rustic Mediterranean and modern British, his menu is one of those frustrating affairs that are genuinely difficult to choose a single option from.
He's one of those chefs who understands vegetables and strives to do interesting things with them, which means that someone like me, who eats meat in decreasing quantities, finds themselves in a lather of indecision.
Eventually, though, we had char-grilled squid with chilli jam (shamelessly hot) and wild rocket, and acorn-fed pork loin with black figs and shaved Parmesan on the table between us. The pork dish was great: an eyes-closed combo of savoury, sweet and fruity. My brill came with a gorgeous combination of salsify, cavolo nero, capers and salsa verde which cut the fattiness of the fish quite perfectly.
Special mention, too, for the coffee zabaglione, which I tasted in order to disapprove of mucking about with a dish that is already perfection, and started smiling on the second spoonful. Roughly pounds 35 a head with puds and house wine, and you can spend some really silly money in the Conran Shop afterwards.
Brompton Bay, 96 Draycott Avenue, SW3 (0171-225 2500)
The Collection 264 Brompton Rd, SW3 (0171-225 1212)
Pelham Street 93 Pelham St, SW3 (0171-584 4788)
Bibendum 81 Fulham Rd, SW3 (0171-581 5817)
Tsu 118 Draycott Ave, SW3 (0171-584 5522)
Potter's attempt to create an Essex Taj Mahal was a lovely treattv
Arts & Ents blogs
- 1 Games of Thrones actor Lena Headey makes emotional promise to her unborn daughter
- 2 Isis burns woman alive for refusing to engage in 'extreme' sex act, UN says
- 3 Puerto Rico, island of lost dreams: People are leaving the debt-hit territory in droves as near neighbour Cuba's star rises
- 4 Female Muay Thai champion hustles coaches to give them a beating
- 5 Picture of couple posing with beached dolphin 'that later died' causes outrage
Eurovision 2015: Graham Norton returns with another cutting commentary - his best lines
Eurovision 2015: The best moments from Australia's random entry to Lithuania's gay kiss
Clarkson, Hammond and May Live: Top Gear trio returns with a blend of fireworks, AC/DC and 'automotive pornography'
Eurovision 2015 winner: Sweden beats Russia and Italy to take the title from Conchita Wurst
Eurovision 2015: Estonia seemingly enters Louis Tomlinson from One Direction
As a white man, I'm surprised more women aren't tweeting the hashtag #KillAllWhiteMen
Scotland may have to leave the EU even if it votes to stay in, David Cameron confirms
Report finds that Britain's wages are the most unequal in Europe
The day that Britain resigned as a global power
Almost a third of school pupils believe 'Muslims are taking over our country', study claims
SNP fury as HS2 finds 'no business case' for taking fast train service to Scotland