TASTES; Claudia Roden's favourite restaurant

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The Independent Culture
Food writer Claudia Roden rhapsodises about Dal Pescatore (00 39 0376 723001), in the hamlet of Runate, near Cremona, Mantova, Italy. The Santini family's restaurant is small - 28 covers only - but perfectly formed, and boasts three Michelin stars.

"Fishing is in the family. The grandfather was a fisherman and the restaurant used to grill and sell his catch. They are into traditional food - river eels, ducks, geese, frog's legs, saffron risotto - but they do the old dishes in such a way that they are transformed into haute cuisine. Their tortelli de zuca [pumpkin] are the best I've ever eaten. The baby eels are fantastic."

Claudia Roden's `The Food of Italy: Region by Region' is published by Vintage at pounds 9.99