Their future is all sewn up

No big names at London Men's Fashion Week, but there soon will be.

Despite the fact that designers such as Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood will never abandon Paris and Milan for London, those hot favourites and media darlings John Rocha and John Richmond did put their faith into London Men's Fashion Week and, in doing so, ensured it a certain level of clout.

But, as is often the case, it was surprise new entries such as Warren Kade, 21st Century Kilts and Bent & Corrupt who perpetuated the internationally held understanding that a lot of very creative stuff comes out of Britain.

Warren Kade is, in fact, not a man but a girl, PJ Kim Warren, and her male partner, Kade Uawithya, and the label promises to be one to watch. Hatched from the internationally acclaimed Royal College of Art and Central St Martin's, it has success written all over it. The collection was an exuberant rock-star fantasy mixed with performance kit, classic tailoring and streetwear. The key seasonal trends were there (drawstrings, hip-slung pants, plenty of grey, raw edges, funnel necklines) but hardly overstated in a dictatorial way.

Their emphasis was clearly on individual statements, even mixing vintage items (tailcoats) and Levi's jeans. Huge, shaggy goat-hair collars, sheepskin gilets over shirts, sailor pants, traditional masculine fabrics for sporty pieces, quirky details such as mock ivory teeth fixed to trousers - all contributed to a cheeky, appealing and wearable look.

"We're feeling ecstatic - the response has been so fantastic," says PJ. "Our Italian production company wanted us to show in Milan, but I'm so happy that we stuck out for London. The collection has already sold to stores in Japan, Hong Kong, America, Italy and Spain, as well as Vertice in London."

Incidentally, Warren Kade shares an Italian showroom with Matthew Williamson, Clements Ribeiro and Helmut Lang - so the firm's in good company.

So what about the rest of the clothes? Small and low-key it may have been, but London Men's Fashion Week was pretty forthcoming with the critical fin de siecle trends, if you leave aside Boateng-inspired sharp, skinny suits with bright linings and tricky detailing from designers such as DA Lilliard - too mid-Nineties to be taken seriously. Far more relevant here is the laid-back, streetwear-meets-sportswear-meets-formal-wear hybrid that is collectively tagged "urban sportswear" for simplicity's sake.

Wherever I looked, both on and off the catwalk, there was a sea of grey (yes, it's still a goer) and any man I spoke to admitted that he could easily imagine himself in any of the slate, dove, elephant, charcoal, anthracite combinations, with perhaps a little black or white thrown in for light relief.

But the collections that stood out were those that had gone a little more wild with the colour palette: muted pastel knits at Bent & Corrupt; teal and oxblood at All Saints; hot pink and orange under Richmond's grey jackets; claret and teal accessories at Costelloe; honey and cream sweaters at Rocha and red leather at Warren Kade.

Amid this sea of monochromatic practicality was one name having a laugh with fashion. The crowds flocked to 21st Century Kilts (sponsored by Timberland), where real men with great calf muscles sat around all day in denim/tweed/metallic/sheer plastic/Chinese/satin kilts.

Never a dull moment, and it left us all wondering exactly what a millennium man should wear under his kilt.

Since they were true Scotsmen, however, the answer was not forthcoming. But I could have sworn I saw some bare flesh through that plastic kilt. Luckily a sporran kept me tastefully in the dark.

Arts and Entertainment
Chloe-Jasmine Whicello impressed the judges and the audience at Wembley Arena with a sultry performance
TVReview: Who'd have known Simon was such a Roger Rabbit fan?
News
Rumer was diagnosed with bipolarity, attention deficit hyperactivity disorder and post-traumatic stress disorder: 'I was convinced it was a misdiagnosis'
peopleHer debut album caused her post-traumatic stress - how will she cope as she releases her third record?
Arts and Entertainment
Nick Frost will star in the Doctor Who 2014 Christmas special

TV
Arts and Entertainment
Friends is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year
TV
Arts and Entertainment
A spell in the sun: Emma Stone and Colin Firth star in ‘Magic in the Moonlight’
filmReview: Magic In The Moonlight
PROMOTED VIDEO
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Arts and Entertainment
Maisie Williams plays 'bad ass' Arya Stark in Game of Thrones

TV
Arts and Entertainment
Liam Neeson said he wouldn't

TV
Arts and Entertainment

TV
Arts and Entertainment
Meera Syal was a member of the team that created Goodness Gracious Me

TV
Arts and Entertainment
The former Doctor Who actor is to play a vicar is search of a wife

film
Arts and Entertainment

music
Arts and Entertainment
Pointless host Alexander Armstrong will voice Danger Mouse on CBBC

TV
Arts and Entertainment
Pharrell dismissed the controversy surrounding

music
Arts and Entertainment
Jack Huston is the new Ben-Hur

film
Arts and Entertainment

TV
Arts and Entertainment
Cara Delevingne modelling

film
Arts and Entertainment
Emma Thompson and Bryn Terfel are bringing Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street to the London Coliseum

theatre
Arts and Entertainment
Sheridan Smith as Cilla Black

TV
Arts and Entertainment
Robin Thicke's video for 'Blurred Lines' has been criticised for condoning rape

Robin Thicke admits he didn't write 'Blurred Lines'

music
Arts and Entertainment
While many films were released, few managed to match the success of James Bond blockbuster 'Skyfall'

film
Arts and Entertainment
Matt Damon as Jason Bourne in The Bourne Ultimatum (2007)

film
Arts and Entertainment
Sheridan Smith as Cilla Black

Review: Cilla, ITV TV
Arts and Entertainment

TV
Arts and Entertainment
Tom Hardy stars with Cillian Murphy in Peaky Blinders II

TV
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?

ES Rentals

    Independent Dating
    and  

    By clicking 'Search' you
    are agreeing to our
    Terms of Use.

    Scottish referendum: The Yes vote was the love that dared speak its name, but it was not to be

    Despite the result, this is the end of the status quo

    Boyd Tonkin on the fall-out from the Scottish referendum
    Manolo Blahnik: The high priest of heels talks flats, Englishness, and why he loves Mary Beard

    Manolo Blahnik: Flats, Englishness, and Mary Beard

    The shoe designer who has been dubbed 'the patron saint of the stiletto'
    The Beatles biographer reveals exclusive original manuscripts of some of the best pop songs ever written

    Scrambled eggs and LSD

    Behind The Beatles' lyrics - thanks to Hunter Davis's original manuscript copies
    'Normcore' fashion: Blending in is the new standing out in latest catwalk non-trend

    'Normcore': Blending in is the new standing out

    Just when fashion was in grave danger of running out of trends, it only went and invented the non-trend. Rebecca Gonsalves investigates
    Dance’s new leading ladies fight back: How female vocalists are now writing their own hits

    New leading ladies of dance fight back

    How female vocalists are now writing their own hits
    Mystery of the Ground Zero wedding photo

    A shot in the dark

    Mystery of the wedding photo from Ground Zero
    His life, the universe and everything

    His life, the universe and everything

    New biography sheds light on comic genius of Douglas Adams
    Save us from small screen superheroes

    Save us from small screen superheroes

    Shows like Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D are little more than marketing tools
    Reach for the skies

    Reach for the skies

    From pools to football pitches, rooftop living is looking up
    These are the 12 best hotel spas in the UK

    12 best hotel spas in the UK

    Some hotels go all out on facilities; others stand out for the sheer quality of treatments
    These Iranian-controlled Shia militias used to specialise in killing American soldiers. Now they are fighting Isis, backed up by US airstrikes

    Widespread fear of Isis is producing strange bedfellows

    Iranian-controlled Shia militias that used to kill American soldiers are now fighting Isis, helped by US airstrikes
    Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

    Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

    Shoppers don't come to Topshop for the unique
    How to make a Lego masterpiece

    How to make a Lego masterpiece

    Toy breaks out of the nursery and heads for the gallery
    Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

    Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

    Urbanites are cursed with an acronym pointing to Employed but No Disposable Income or Savings
    Paisley’s decision to make peace with IRA enemies might remind the Arabs of Sadat

    Ian Paisley’s decision to make peace with his IRA enemies

    His Save Ulster from Sodomy campaign would surely have been supported by many a Sunni imam