Tiger Lil's

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The Independent Culture
if you can't decide whether to have lamb or turkey, squid or mussels, then head to Tiger Lil's, a broadly oriental restaurant where you can have it all.

There's a bit of audience participation involved in selecting your meal, which the staff understand may be daunting for reserved English people, so they explain the system sympathetically. You choose your food raw, then go back to your table and cook it in a hot pot of chicken or vegetable stock. Or, if you prefer, join the floorshow and have your selection engulfed in a fireball by the chefs at the woks. The succulent slivers of squid are particularly delicious, as is the wind dried sausage. But the best bit is that for £10 you can have as many refills as you like.

Despite the DIY emphasis, the service is excellent; for instant attention simply invert a bamboo beaker on the table to reveal its painted blue bottom; this discreet display acts as an apparently dazzling beacon for the cruising staff, who lock on to it and surge determinedly to turn it the right way round

Tiger Lil's, 16a Southside, Clapham (0171-720 5433)

Benjamin Mee