Moving on to Toledo: Galeano Continental bus leaves every 30 minutes from Estacin Sur de Autobuses. Return fare, pounds 5. Journey time, 50 minutes. Trains depart twice an hour from Atocha, Recoletos, Nuevos Ministerios or Chamartin stations. Return fare, pounds 8. Journey time, 90 minutes.
Where to stay: Hotel Pintor El Greco, C/Alamillos del Transito 13 (00 34 25 214250). A converted bakery in the Jewish Quarter. Double room, about pounds 25 per person.
Hotel Santa Isabel, C/Santa Isabel 24 (00 34 25 253120). A 15th-century building near the cathedral. Double room, about pounds 15 per person.
Pension Santa Ursula, C/Santa Ursula 14 (00 34 25 223426). A pretty, five-room pension in the heart of the old town. Double room, pounds 13 per person.
El Diamantista, Plaza Retama 4 (00 34 25 251427). Near the river, some rooms have balconies with spectacular views. Double room, pounds 14 per person.