Words: salt, adj.
Tuesday 20 July 1999
The francophile classicist and movie scholar Peter Graham is author of Classic Cheese Cookery and of Mourjou - the thinking man's Peter Mayle. He always asks whether food "is salt enough for you?" This pleasingly antique form (salt is from Old English) survived until the 18th century, and is preserved in salt beef.
Salt beefcake is something relished by Bridget Jones's ilk. Salt to mean lecherous petered out in the 17th century (originally used of a bitch on heat). It is a slurring of assaut, from the French a saut, to leap. Hence a taste for salty humour.
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