In its unflavoured state, Rossi's ice cream - made to the same recipe since 1937 - is the base for the shakes, sundaes and floats that are enjoyed by all generations. While most opt for a warming Ovaltine or Bovril when the weather cools, there's the occasional nostalgic request for a knickerbocker glory or garish banana split, peach or pear melba or pineapple sundae made with tinned fruit - the way they rarely make them elsewhere.
It's not just the menu (such as it is) that harks back to a bygone age: the chrome, yellow and blue interior has Formica tabletops and cheery post-war posters of ice cream eating children. Fulvio and his staff work seven days a week through the summer, then they shut up shop for the winter - when a hot cup of cocoa could be just the ticket.
Rossi's Ices, 92 The Esplanade, Weymouth, Dorset, telephone 01305 785557. Open daily 10am-6pm until 10 October.
"An old-fashioned drink," says Fulvio, preferred by older customers especially when it's blustery. Stir one teaspoon of Bovril into a mug of boiling water. Add a sprinkling of white pepper and salt to taste.
(Above right) Blend together one teaspoon of Crusha fruit syrup with a scoop of ice cream and just over half a pint of milk. Pour over syrup and whisk.
One scoop of ice cream in a knickerbocker glory glass topped with "whatever's fizzy" (cola, lemonade), for a traditional frothy ice-cream soda. n