Emily Green suggests . . . three good places to eat
Friday 22 July 1994
CITY: Food writers write about food for a reason: most can't cook. Ken Hom, the Chinese American cookery writer, is a notable exception. For proof, try braised aubergine at Imperial City, Royal Exchange, Cornhill, London EC3 (071-626 3437). The vegetable is deep fried, then slow cooked with chicken stock and a well-judged seasoning of garlic, ginger, vinegar, soy, spring onions and bean paste. The upshot is earthy, warming and delicious. The vast new dining room is difficult to find: the City is strict about signs in front of the Royal Exchange. But it is likely to be full. Open peculiar City hours: 11.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri.
SHEPHERD'S BUSH: The late Peter Langan used to say that the three most important things for a restaurant were location, location and location. He was wrong. Consider Chinon (25 Richmond Way, W14 071-602 5968). It is in Shepherd's Bush. The streets are a one-way maze, punctuated by piffling roundabouts. Parking is hell. Yet Chinon works because of its food. Chef Jonathan Hayes is talented and also very playful. So squid might come on a sheet of pasta, dyed black with squid ink, the cap stuffed with a tomato fondant, pine nuts and pesto sauce. Rare and admirable generosity shows in thickly cut liver, its texture firm, flavour excellent. Approx pounds 30 for 3 courses, wine, coffee, service and VAT. Open lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat Access, Amex, Visa.
Life & Style blogs
The high-powered dream team trying to create a stiletto shoe as comfy as a trainer
How Old Do I Look: Microsoft’s super advanced age-guessing app is terrible at guessing how old celebrities are, too
Apple MacBook review: preposterously thin and extravagantly attractive, this is the best-designed laptop Apple has ever made
What do the emoji on Snapchat mean?
The 12 most sexually satisfied countries in the world revealed
Over 50,000 families shipped out of London boroughs in the past three years due to welfare cuts and soaring rents
EU asylum policy is 'a direct threat to our civilisation', says Nigel Farage
Indonesia executions live: 'Hysterical' families heard prisoners being shot dead by firing squad
The Rothschild Libel: Why has it taken 200 years for an anti-Semitic slur that emerged from the Battle of Waterloo to be dismissed?
General Election 2015: SNP and its activists 'openly racist' towards the English, Farage says
EU exit would hit UK economy much harder than neighbouring countries, study finds
- 1 Which country would be hardest to invade?
- 2 The man who filmed the Freddie Gray video has been arrested at gunpoint
- 3 Royal baby girl born: Duchess of Cambridge's second child will be a princess thanks to Queen
- 4 Uploading pictures to find out how old you are gives Microsoft the right to post them wherever they want
- 5 Teen suffers embarrassing wardrobe malfunction in front of deputy PM
£28000 - £45000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Senior Digital Marketing Cons...
£16640 - £18500 per annum: Recruitment Genius: An Assistant Stores Keeper is r...
£16000 - £18500 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an excellent opportunit...
£17000 - £30000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Developer required to join a bu...