FAMILY TRAVEL: Top Table
LUCAS CARTON, PARIS
Saturday 18 December 1999
Lucas Carton, 9 place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris (00 33 1 42 65 22 90)
Clientele and view
Ladies who lunch - and still manage to fit into Chanel and Mugler - sit next to handsome couples nibbling each other, as immaculate, tail- suited waiters glide by, bearing food on silver trays.
Design and service
In 1925, Francis Carton bought Restaurant Lucas. He created seven salons, with a discreet rear door so politicians could slip in and out unnoticed. Others entered by the front. Alain Senderens took over and won three Michelin stars.
Violet-coloured banquettes, outsize antique mirrors and carved-wood panelling make a perfect setting to give her a bijou from Faberge across the road.
Jackets and ties, even if you're Brad Pitt. If you don't bring one - Cerruti has a store right next door, Ralph Lauren is opposite, and Gucci round the corner.
Cellars hold 45,000 bottles but, as head sommelier Jerome Moreau says, if you order just one bottle, it may match just one dish perfectly. So this may be the only three-starred joint to offer great wines by the glass (see below).
A Booker-winner. Try Ma Polenta aux truffes blanches avec son verre de Corton Charlemagne 1990 (cpounds 95) or Lievre a la Royale d'apres la recette d'Antoine Careme pour le Prince de Talleyrand avec son verre Chateauneuf du Pape, Chateau de Beaucastel 1985 JP Perrin (pounds 102).
Menu's off the charts, but has a FFr395 (pounds 39.50) lunch.
Oh yeah, and the food
Raviolis de petoncles aux courgettes for my rock-star companion. My noix de St-Jacques marinees a l'huile epicee almost too beautiful to eat. Mains was cabillaud tiede infuse a la badiane, tomate confite, bayaldi de courgettes a la coriandre, with Moroccan-influenced pastilla de lapin fermier au foie gras et rosemarie for my rocker. My eyes watered at mille- feuille a la vanille. And he'll dedicate new album to coulant de chocolat Madong millesime dans sa croute de brioche au cacao.
elephant appealThe first 23 lots in our charity auction have now gone. But there are 22 more still up for grabs
Look beyond the usual shows for the best festive telly
newsFormer soldier taped 33 of the animals to the floor and then stamped on them one by one
Michelle Nijhuis' daughter insists (s)he is, and she learnt a valuable lesson on gender in books
Life & Style blogs
The 10 Best Scotch Whiskies
America's 'virgin births'? One in 200 mothers 'became pregnant without having sex'
GTA 5: Rockstar bans gamers stealing in-game money worth millions
Microsoft announces first exclusive Xbox One content: a documentary on the worst video game ever
Potential revolution in cancer treatment voted breakthrough of the year by scientists
Exclusive: Young people ‘want UK to stay in Europe’: Four in 10 adults aged 18 to 24 are ‘firmly in favour’ of membership, poll shows
Tom Daley ‘is gay because his father died’ says UK evangelist
Iain Duncan Smith leaves Commons food banks debate early
Kiss and yell: Italian protester charged with sexual assault after kissing riot police officer
PM denies two child limit for benefits is part of Tory welfare policy
Anachronistic and iniquitous, grammar schools are a blot on the British education system
- 1 America's 'virgin births'? One in 200 mothers 'became pregnant without having sex'
- 2 North Koreans are gasping for the truth: Let's give it to them
- 3 Sun will 'flip upside down' within weeks, says Nasa
- 4 Christmas comes early: Justin Bieber is 'retiring from music'
- 5 Cycle death inquest: Boyfriend hugs driver of 32 tonne tipper truck that killed his girlfriend
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