Fashion: Off the peg - Conceptual fashion TV? Now there's a thought.
Saturday 13 February 1999
Zoom is the brainchild of Rupert Murray, a documentary producer who became interested in the independent creative work of fashion photographers known as "testing". A test is when a photographer and stylist, together with hair and make-up artists and a model, team up to produce a fashion shoot without the restrictions of a client or magazine editor. Most tests are not for publication and all parties involved give their services for free.
Murray was intrigued by the whole process. "Testing doesn't happen within the TV world, there are no mutually creative endeavours. In the same way stills photographers have little opportunity to work in the medium of film."
The series of five blink-and-you'll-miss-them three-minute films, one to be screened each day of next week - and featuring the work of mainly British fashion designers - is the unusual and visually arresting result.
It's a far cry from catwalk footage and Style Challenge-inspired make-over slots. "This is about the creativity of the photographer," says Murray. "It's their chance to produce a high-end, visually creative event with the moving image which is on a par artistically with a fashion shoot."
The series kicks off with Juergen Teller's film made last year in conjunction with graphic team Fuel, which features Kate Moss wearing John Galliano. Katerina Jebb, whose film is screened on Wednesday, is well known for her ethereal life-size colour photocopy fashion shoots. In her film she reveals the secret methods of her work, with a bit of Comme des Garcons thrown in for good measure.
So is it fashion, is it art, or just a lot of nonsense? You decide.
`Zoom', Monday to Friday, 7.50pm, Channel 4
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