If you are not the type of man who subscribes to the "give them free advertising" school of fashion, you will not be thrilled at the prospect of the American giants Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren and Nike all opening stores in London in the next 18 months. You will not be rushing to buy a wardrobe of Nike ticks, from shoes to baseball cap. Nor will you be clearing space for shirts that scream "Tommy, Tommy, Tommy!" or "Ralph rules OK!" Instead, you might be interested in the more low-key, understated school of sportswear from British designers including Paul Smith, Vexed Generation, YMC and Felix Blow. These clothes are functional, high-performance, and shh... very, very shy. Styling by Angela M Stephens. Photographs by Mark Van Lengen

Left Sky blue, high neck fleece, pounds 90, and olive green record bag, pounds 70, both by Vexed Generation, 3 Berwick Street, London W1; cream trousers, pounds 80, by YMC from The Library, 268 Brompton Road, London SW3; Duffer of George, 29 Shorts Gardens, London WC2; Ratio, 3-4 Market Street, The Lanes, Brighton BN1 1HH; hat, pounds 45, from Paul Smith, 43 Floral Street, London WC2

Above Indigo denim jacket, pounds 80, from Vexed Generation, as before; shirt, pounds 70, from YMC from Browns Focus, 38/39 South Molton Street, London W1

Left Blue Judo trousers, pounds 55, from Paul Smith, as before; black flip-flops, pounds 160, by D&G from Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge, London W1, Browns, South Molton Street, London W1, and Selfridges, Oxford Street, London W1

Above Jacket, pounds 115, by Felix Blow from Browns Focus, 38 / 39 South Molton Street, London W1; T-shirt, pounds 20.95, by Sun and Sand from the Dispensary, Newburgh Street, London W1; Teflon coated microfibre trousers, pounds 85, by Maharish, Browns Focus, as before; Regular Store, 16 Earlham Street, London W1, enquiries 0181-451 5313. Hair and Make-Up Liz Pugh for Martyn Gayle W11

Model Elvis