After Pilati and Galliano, another wobbler at Paris fashion week

It's the season that has brought "more sighs than smiles" as one outlet put it: after persistent rumors that Stefano Pilati is to show his last collection for YSL and Dior's sacking of creative head John Galliano days before its show, the absence of Balmain's designer Christophe Decarnin at that house's show has spurred speculation about his presence at the brand.

Decarnin failing to take the traditional bow at the finale of the Balmain show Thursday had many attendees twittering, and shortly after, the gossipy yet reputed Hintmag reported, that according to an insider source, the designer had checked into a mental health hospital back in January - possibly fueled by drugs, many a tongue wagged.

The magazine adds that Balmain staff had been told that Decarnin wouldn't return and that the house's stylist Melanie Ward, who took over from Emmanuelle Alt when she was named French Vogue's editor-in-chief, completed the collection by herself.

Balmain has meanwhile told fashion site The Daily Beast that the designer is indeed "not feeling well" and "by doctor's orders needs rest, and that is the only reason he was not present at the show."

Decarnin joined Balmain in 2005 and together with Alt coined the brand's signature rock'n'roll look of bold shoulders and skinny jeans.

Even without the apparent changes at Balmain, Parisian fashion is set to be reformed: though there are no official statements yet, the fashion crowd expects Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci to replace Galliano at Dior, with Haider Ackermann likely to fill Tisci's spot. (Ackermann was previously rumored to be in the running to take over Chanel when Karl Lagerfeld retires next year, but the recent developments have added new fuel to the idea that Lanvin's Alber Elbaz could be the lucky one.)

Also, everybody seems to be convinced that, despite YSL's official denial, creative director Stefano Pilati will soon be ousted from the house and succeeded by former Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane, with ancient Vogue editrix Carine Roitfeld possible joining him at the house.

Meanwhile, the changes that have taken place at the Mugler brand, mainly due to its new creative director Nicola Formichetti, are already paying off: Lady Gaga just bought the entire collection after walking in its show.

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