Dior's tropical mists meet Miyake's fashion 'spirits'

A misty sensuality wafted through Paris Friday, as captain John Galliano steered Christian Dior's new summer collection to a lost Pacific island, and Issey Mikaye drew its new look from a haunted house.

American supermodel Karlie Kloss was first to stride out from a desert island decor, complete with white sand and ruined beach villa, in a sailor's cap, hooded parka in crisp white nubuck leather, paired with stiletto boots.

Followed an upbeat roll-call of catwalk sailors in cotton print day dresses and sarong twists, patterned with bright hibiscus and orchids, worn with peacoats and white caps cocked to one side.

Designer Galliano chose pumping 80s pop for his soundtrack, but the look was 1950s to the fingertips, with shoulder-length iron-curled hair and fringes, and cat-eye shades in bright lollipop hues of orange, pink or blue.

There was a mini-riot when Kate Moss - who had yet to be seen at the Paris shows - took up a front row seat at the Tuileries Gardens show, wearing a tight leather mini-skirt and ostrich-feather coat.

Seated next to her, Dior chief executive Sidney Toledano told AFP after the show that Galliano had made a seamless journey from flowers - the theme of his latest haute couture at Dior - to the island universe of the ready-to-wear.

"It's a real summer collection, all about colours," he said. "You have that whole same universe we saw with the couture, spirited to the South Pacific."

For on-shore leave, the crew switched to roll-up chinos and beaten leathers or mini-shorts worn with hooded sweater and waistcoat, though for footwear they stuck to stiletto espadrilles with little ankle warmers to keep off the breeze.

And for evening Dior's woman let the day fall away in bare-all, flowing translucent long silks, in fuschia, indigo or turquoise complete with trailing belts and necklaces of exotic feathers, shells and organza.

Ever the showman, Galliano stepped out to salute the fashion crowd in a pirate captain's uniform, navy blue with magenta lapels, his hair worn in wispy long plaits.

At Issey Miyake, a cool mist wafted onto the runway as the models stepped out in ghostly-fine silks, to the sound of eery fairground music with strings, trumpets and soft chanting - conjuring the image of a haunted house.

Pale as moonlight, the first model wore a dress of infinitely soft, pleated grey silk tumbling straight from bare shoulders to the thighs like its wearer's thick, soft pony tail, blonde with a red streak.

"There's a ghost hiding in the clothes. It waits patiently in the clothes to entice a new spirit," whispered the show's notes.

Designer Dai Fujiwara put the focus on fabrics, showcasing the label's technical know-how in series with names like "Invisible", "Transformation", "Shadow" or "Merry-Ghost-Round."

Sleeveless dresses were folded over the breasts like kimonos, with a large black-and-white check worn over ballooning soft white pants, while flowing, ultra-fine silks alternated with highly-structured pleats.

A white, full length, fine-knitted dress was covered with a mosaic of tiny slits that stretched to offer a glimpse of the model's black skin underneath, with ridges of little triangles like a dragon's scales running up the arms.

One cleverly pleated sarong-dress bounced up and down almost a foot as the model walked.

The Miyake palette mostly ran from white to black - like a grey silk dress with a band of lighter silver discs running around the breast - with patterns like cobwebs and mist.

Black twisted leather could be zipped on and off white dresses, with bags to match.

But there were playful numbers too, like a rust-coloured bell hat of wide netting, worn over straw-coloured shorts and body-hugging top with rich, scrunched-looking embellishments.

And eruptions of colour came with bold chequered or tie-dyed patterns in mustard, red, and turquoise.

News
peoplePaper attempts to defend itself
Voices
voicesWe desperately need men to be feminists too
Life and Style
food + drink
Arts and Entertainment
British actor Idris Elba is also a DJ and rapper who played Ibiza last summer
film
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Life and Style
ebooksFrom the lifespan of a slug to the distance to the Sun: answers to 500 questions from readers
Arts and Entertainment
The Tiger Who Came To Tea
booksJudith Kerr on what inspired her latest animal intruder - 'The Crocodile Under the Bed'
News
Alan Bennett criticised the lack of fairness in British society encapsulated by the private school system
peopleBut he does like Stewart Lee
Sport
John Terry, Frank Lampard
footballChelsea captain sends signed shirt to fan whose mum had died
News
people
News
i100
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Account Executive/Sales Consultant – Permanent – Hertfordshire - £16-£20k

    £16500 - £20000 Per Annum: Clearwater People Solutions Ltd: We are currently r...

    KS2 PPA Teacher needed (Mat Cover)- Worthing!

    £100 - £125 per day: Randstad Education Crawley: KS2 PPA Teacher currently nee...

    IT Systems Manager

    £40000 - £45000 per annum + pension, healthcare,25 days: Ashdown Group: An est...

    IT Application Support Engineer - Immediate Start

    £28000 per annum: Ashdown Group: IT Software Application Support Analyst - Imm...

    Day In a Page

    Syria air strikes: ‘Peace President’ Obama had to take stronger action against Isis after beheadings

    Robert Fisk on Syria air strikes

    ‘Peace President’ Obama had to take stronger action against Isis after beheadings
    Will Lindsay Lohan's West End debut be a turnaround moment for her career?

    Lindsay Lohan's West End debut

    Will this be a turnaround moment for her career?
    'The Crocodile Under the Bed': Judith Kerr's follow-up to 'The Tiger Who Came to Tea'

    The follow-up to 'The Tiger Who Came to Tea'

    Judith Kerr on what inspired her latest animal intruder - 'The Crocodile Under the Bed' - which has taken 46 years to get into print
    BBC Television Centre: A nostalgic wander through the sets, studios and ghosts of programmes past

    BBC Television Centre

    A nostalgic wander through the sets, studios and ghosts of programmes past
    10 best rucksacks for backpackers

    Pack up your troubles: 10 best rucksacks for backpackers

    Off on an intrepid trip? Experts from student trip specialists Real Gap and Quest Overseas recommend luggage for travellers on the move
    Secret politics of the weekly shop

    The politics of the weekly shop

    New app reveals political leanings of food companies
    Beam me up, Scottie!

    Beam me up, Scottie!

    Celebrity Trekkies from Alex Salmond to Barack Obama
    Beware Wet Paint: The ICA's latest ambitious exhibition

    Beware Wet Paint

    The ICA's latest ambitious exhibition
    Pink Floyd have produced some of rock's greatest ever album covers

    Pink Floyd have produced some of rock's greatest ever album covers

    Can 'The Endless River' carry on the tradition?
    Sanctuary for the suicidal

    Sanctuary for the suicidal

    One mother's story of how London charity Maytree helped her son with his depression
    A roller-coaster tale from the 'voice of a generation'

    Not That Kind of Girl:

    A roller-coaster tale from 'voice of a generation' Lena Dunham
    London is not bedlam or a cradle of vice. In fact it, as much as anywhere, deserves independence

    London is not bedlam or a cradle of vice

    In fact it, as much as anywhere, deserves independence
    Vivienne Westwood 'didn’t want' relationship with Malcolm McLaren

    Vivienne Westwood 'didn’t want' relationship with McLaren

    Designer 'felt pressured' into going out with Sex Pistols manager
    Jourdan Dunn: Model mother

    Model mother

    Jordan Dunn became one of the best-paid models in the world
    Apple still coolest brand – despite U2 PR disaster

    Apple still the coolest brand

    Despite PR disaster of free U2 album