Fashion fun at Moschino, Etro shows in Milan

Playful military uniforms and tapestry-inspired trompe l'oeil prints competed with a hen as a hat on the third day of Milan's Fashion Week ahead of the keenly awaited Versace show.

Moschino's autumn-winter collection starred a feathered-fowl creation and featured red, cream and black riding coats, double-breasted jackets and tuxedoes which were lifted by bouquet-print lining and flower broaches.

Gold bear-shaped pins, large pearl necklaces and long gloves softened "the rigid lines of that man's world that a woman knows all too well and can wear to perfection," Moschino's Rossella Jardini told her guests.

Slinky, classic black dresses that rested just below the knee were embellished with large white ruffles at the neckline and waist or a shirt worn with a bow tie, floral cummerbunds or the fantastical feathered-hen hat.

Satin floor-length and below-the-knee dresses in nude and candy pinks were the highlight of the eveningwear collection, as well as shimmering gold trousers matched with black-trimmed, oversized double-breasted jackets.

The Etro show also featured tuxedo silhouettes and masculine jackets, adorned with tapestry motifs on the lapels in a collection shot through with burnt and rust tones, as well as soft greys and midnight blues.

"I was inspired by antique carpets, tapestries and embroideries ... everything that has a history," Veronica Etro said backstage before the show.

Heavy wools, tartans and tweeds were combined with metallic lurex pieces that shimmered like liquid and were accessorised with large, elegant round gold pendants or holster-style shoulder straps decorated with ancient coins.

Coats with tartan bodies and metallic leather arms were finished with a sheepskin collar, gilets were adorned with carpet-fringe tassels and simple black jackets were embellished with gold, Inca-esque designs.

For all its new take on fabrics - wool treated to look like fur, pelt disguised as knit - the collection had an aged quality to it as if discovered in distant lands.

"The colours and textures evoke borderlands, with women who have lived embattled lives: warrior women," Etro said.

In stark contrast, the women at Gianfranco Ferre were leading lives of languid indulgence, in silver, beige and gold cashmere and in velvet and silk dresses, worn with delicate flesh pink, grey or black pumps.

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi's designs drew on "shapes and structures that reflect a feel for the architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright," a US turn-of-the-century architect who designed the Guggenheim Museum.

Large jackets with asymmetrical lapels paired cashmere and fur, while dual-toned purple and black dresses to the knee were lifted with an open slit from nape to waist at the back, or with a silver cummerbund.

A play on textures saw velvet and sheepskin panelling on patterned coats, chiffon blouses or dresses.

In a similar vein was an evening gown in alternating bands of satin which clung to the body revealing traces of bare skin.

voicesSiobhan Norton on why she eventually changed her mind
Life and Style
fashion Designs are part of feminist art project by a British student
Snoop Dogg pictured at The Hollywood Reporter Nominees' Night in February, 2013
people... says Snoop Dogg
Life and Style
ebookA wonderful selection of salads, starters and mains featuring venison, grouse and other game
Life and Style
food + drinkZebra meat is exotic and lean - but does it taste good?
Arts and Entertainment
Residents of Derby Road in Southampton oppose filming of Channel 4 documentary Immigration Street in their community
Arts and Entertainment
The Tour de France peloton rides over a bridge on the Grinton Moor, Yorkshire, earlier this month
Scottish singer Susan Boyle will perform at the Commonwealth Games opening ceremony in Glasgow
commonwealth games
Lane Del Rey performing on the Pyramid Stage at Glastonbury 2014
people... but none of them helped me get a record deal, insists Lana Del Rey
Arts and Entertainment
Dwayne 'The Rock' Johnson stars in Hercules
filmReview: The Rock is a muscular Davy Crockett in this preposterous film, says Geoffrey Macnab
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    SAP Business Consultant (SD, MM and FICO), £55,000, Wakefield

    £45000 - £55000 per annum + competitive: Progressive Recruitment: SAP Business...

    Java Developer

    £40000 - £60000 per annum + competitive: Progressive Recruitment: My client, a...

    SAP Functional Consultant (SD, MM and FICO), £45,000 - £55,000.

    £45000 - £55000 per annum + Benefits: Progressive Recruitment: SAP Functional ...

    Javascript Developer

    £40000 - £60000 per annum + competitive: Progressive Recruitment: My client, a...

    Day In a Page

    Noel Fielding's 'Luxury Comedy': A land of the outright bizarre

    Noel Fielding's 'Luxury Comedy'

    A land of the outright bizarre
    What are the worst 'Word Crimes'?

    What are the worst 'Word Crimes'?

    ‘Weird Al’ Yankovic's latest video is an ode to good grammar. But what do The Independent’s experts think he’s missed out?
    Can Secret Cinema sell 80,000 'Back to the Future' tickets?

    The worst kept secret in cinema

    A cult movie event aims to immerse audiences of 80,000 in ‘Back to the Future’. But has it lost its magic?
    Facebook: The new hatched, matched and dispatched

    The new hatched, matched and dispatched

    Family events used to be marked in the personal columns. But now Facebook has usurped the ‘Births, Deaths and Marriages’ announcements
    Why do we have blood types?

    Are you my type?

    All of us have one but probably never wondered why. Yet even now, a century after blood types were discovered, it’s a matter of debate what they’re for
    Honesty box hotels: You decide how much you pay

    Honesty box hotels

    Five hotels in Paris now allow guests to pay only what they think their stay was worth. It seems fraught with financial risk, but the honesty policy has its benefit
    Commonwealth Games 2014: Why weight of pressure rests easy on Michael Jamieson’s shoulders

    Michael Jamieson: Why weight of pressure rests easy on his shoulders

    The Scottish swimmer is ready for ‘the biggest race of my life’ at the Commonwealth Games
    Some are reformed drug addicts. Some are single mums. All are on benefits. But now these so-called 'scroungers’ are fighting back

    The 'scroungers’ fight back

    The welfare claimants battling to alter stereotypes
    Amazing video shows Nasa 'flame extinguishment experiment' in action

    Fireballs in space

    Amazing video shows Nasa's 'flame extinguishment experiment' in action
    A Bible for billionaires

    A Bible for billionaires

    Find out why America's richest men are reading John Brookes
    Paranoid parenting is on the rise - and our children are suffering because of it

    Paranoid parenting is on the rise

    And our children are suffering because of it
    For sale: Island where the Magna Carta was sealed

    Magna Carta Island goes on sale

    Yours for a cool £4m
    Phone hacking scandal special report: The slide into crime at the 'News of the World'

    The hacker's tale: the slide into crime at the 'News of the World'

    Glenn Mulcaire was jailed for six months for intercepting phone messages. James Hanning tells his story in a new book. This is an extract
    We flinch, but there are degrees of paedophilia

    We flinch, but there are degrees of paedophilia

    Child abusers are not all the same, yet the idea of treating them differently in relation to the severity of their crimes has somehow become controversial
    The truth about conspiracy theories is that some require considering

    The truth about conspiracy theories is that some require considering

    For instance, did Isis kill the Israeli teenagers to trigger a war, asks Patrick Cockburn