In most cases, the observation that an advertising campaign looks like editorial would be a criticism that the image wasn't punchy enough to stand alone, away from a narrative context. But in relation to Juergen Teller's series for Marc Jacobs, it would be a comment on the idiosyncrasy of the casting and the rawness of the presentation: qualities that would never do at Dior, say.
Over the years, the list of Marc Jacobs' sitters – a mix of "cool girls" and veteran models including Charlotte Rampling, Meg White and Sofia Coppola – has been consciously compiled to strike awe into Jacobs' competitors. Which was more shocking about summer's campaign starring Victoria Beckham – that Jacobs even considered the media-greedy Spice Girl to front his campaigns, or that Teller managed to get her to pose inside a giant carrier bag, anonymous but for her feet?
When Marc Jacobs promised fans "a model" for autumn/winter, few would have predicted the result would be such a classic fashion image. Yes, British mannequin Stella Tennant is a 37-year-old mother and is held to have a certain punk edge. Forget that Teller has photographed her in the dark, standing in... what? Gold "foil"? Look at that pose, accentuating the drape of her velvet gown: she could be a 1940s couture model. In its tension between reality and fantasy, the campaign has all the lightness and grace of vintage fashion photography.
Verdict: Amazing and graceful