Alexander Fury: Unisex doesn’t always iron out the bumps
Wear, What, Why, When?
Alongside the autumn/winter menswear collections, women’s pre-collections have been trickling out. Sometimes, at the same time: at the Prada presentation last Sunday, a dozen female models marched on to the catwalk from a different entrance, clad in Prada’s pre-fall 2014 fashions, like a “photo-bomb” of the blokes’ show.
Nevertheless, Prada’s interlopers underline a major emergent theme:unisex. It isn’t unisex in the anodyne, neutered manner of the mid-1970s, an era clad in drab denim dungarees, when fashion was shorn of sexiness in favour of alleged equality. I suppose everyone looking hideous is kind of a leveller. But our new unisex seems more challenging and confrontational.
The new unisex is Prada’s stockingette knits and slinky 6ft chiffon scarves, regardless of gender; it’s Riccardo Tisci offering intricate prints and couture fabrics for him and for her; it’s JW Anderson pulling shapes from his men’s winter show and pushing them straight into his womenswear pre-collection. Those shapes were markedly feminine, but they somehow served a double function. The capes looked swaggering on his blokes, not swishy.
It reminded me of the work of Antony Price, who dressed men and women alike in nipped-waisted suiting in luscious velvets and taffetas. I always thought of it as Barbie doll meets Action Man, the idea of pushing the male and female figures to the extreme.
Ultimately, the new unisex is about celebrating those polar opposites and blurring them together, not ironing out every gender-identifying physiognomical lump and bump.
Life & Style blogs
The Evil Within preview: a survival horror fan’s best worst nightmare
Porn film production likely to stop in Los Angeles after actor tests positive for HIV
Ice Bucket Challenge: ALS Association doesn't yet know what to do with all of the money raised
Anal sex study reveals climate of 'coercion'
iPhone 6 'release date' firmed up in leaked photos of Apple smartphone
- 1 Keira Knightley topless: Usually conservative actress does own take on #Freethenipple campaign for Interview Magazine
- 2 Oil tanker with $100 million cargo goes missing off Texas coast
- 3 George Galloway left with severe bruising after attack in Notting Hill by man 'shouting about the Holocaust'
- 4 Saudi Arabia executes 19 in one half of August in 'disturbing surge of beheadings'
- 5 Brother and sister, Christopher Buckner and Timothy Savoy, arrested for 'committing incest after watching 'The Notebook''
- < Previous
- Next >
£28000 - £30000 per annum + Benefits + Bonus: Harrington Starr: Junior VB.NET ...
£40000 - £50000 per annum + Benefits + Bonus: Harrington Starr: C# .NET Web De...
Highly Competitive Salary: Austen Lloyd: HAMPSHIRE MARKET TOWN - A highly attr...
£35000 per annum: Harrington Starr: Network Engineer (CCNP, CCNA, Linux, OSPF,...