Austerity fashion: Just like mother used to make

A hand-knitted jumper proffered by an aged aunt at Christmas used to be the stuff of fashion nightmares. And as for the idea of actually knitting a more suitable version oneself... well, why would you go to the trouble when there are rails of sweaters to be had for pennies on the high street? But it seems a growing number of British fashion lovers are picking up their knitting needles and discovering that affordable, stylish clothing that will last more than a single season doesn't come from a shop.

This renewed vogue for knitting is not entirely new. For the past few years, more and more young women have been won over by the joys of chunky yarns and garter stitches by social knitting networks such as Stitch *Bitch, whose members meet in cafés and pubs for a weekly session of stitching and a chinwag. Celebs have been getting in on the act, too: actresses Sarah Jessica Parker, Julianne Moore and Uma Thurman have all been spotted on set clutching their needles between takes.

So far, the emphasis has been on novelty rather than necessity. Recreational knitters might dabble with a pair of socks or some funky accessories to give to friends, but few were committed to ambitious projects intended to form the basis of their everyday wardrobes. Now, however, as belts tighten and consumers' fixation with cheap, blink-and-you'll-miss-it fashions dwindles, women of all ages are looking back to their mothers, grandmothers and even great-grandmothers for inspiration on how to knit their way to style and substance.

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Fortunately, for those not privy to first-hand wisdom from the older-generation, help has arrived in the form of the re-issue of a classic knitting textbook, A Stitch in Time: Knitting Patterns 1920-1949. First compiled by Jane Waller in the early-1970s, the book is something of a bible for knitters interested in vintage looks, though for years it has languished out of print.

It was former fashion and textiles lecturer Susan Crawford, whose knitonthenet.com website has recently been averaging 80,000 hits a day, who came up with the idea of reissuing an updated version of the text, complete with multi-size patterns to suit all figures and beautiful colour photos demonstrating the contemporary appeal of the finished garments. Among them are chic woollen tea dresses and demure fitted jumpers with sweet puffed sleeves, all of which should satisfy both boho fashion lovers and those who prefer a smarter, classic look. All will tie in perfectly with the 1940s-inspired trends that emerged on the catwalks for next spring.

"As a fashion student, vintage clothing was always something that interested me," says Crawford. "I became aware of Jane's book in the early-1980s and I loved the styling of the women. Back then it was the late-1950s that captured the imagination, but there have been so many films and TV programmes in the past few years that show how glamorous women were during the 1940s despite all the adversity. They pulled out all the stops to look good whatever happened and there's so much we can learn on a practical level from that."

The specific appeal of the original patterns lies in their ingenuity and resourcefulness, says Waller, who sourced them from a huge collection of women's magazines of the period that she found in an outhouse of a cottage bequeathed to her father. "The 1940s were about quality over quantity," she explains. "Because of the war effort, clothing was stripped of features such as belts and buckles, so they had to dress it up with beautiful patterns and details instead, which is why the designs are so original and imaginative. That's why you get such interesting textures with lacy or bobbly effects."

Crawford agrees that standard modern designs are vastly inferior in terms of both the way they are made and their aesthetic effect: "There is a lot in the construction of these pieces that has been lost over the years since the 1960s, when machine-knitting was invented. You find incredibly clever details – that you might see now only in couture clothes on the catwalks – such as intricate three-dimensional shaping at the top of sleeves to create boxy shapes." '

If all this sounds intimidatingly complicated, worry not. "The old patterns give all the directions line by line, so it is easy to follow," reassures Waller. "It simply takes longer as a beginner. But if you work through the book, you'll find that each item teaches you something new, so you are getting an education as much as a new set of clothes."

While the investment of time and effort is admittedly greater than dashing into a shop, both women are adamant that this is by far the most economical way of kitting yourself out. "The garments of this period were predominantly made from finer yarns, so from every 50g ball of wool you get more meterage, since the yarn is lighter, so you need fewer balls of wall – perhaps six or seven for a sweater," says Crawford. "A decent ball of wool costs £3.50 to £4, so you are getting something beautiful that is unique and will last you for years, for less than £30. Just don't shrink it in the wash!"

What's more, the book is full of tips (see box, left) on saving money in other areas by reusing almost anything you care to mention – old tights become the stuffing for a fabric button or shoulder pad, tiny amounts of leftover wool provide contrasting trims, and unwanted woollen clothes are unpicked so that the old yarn can be wound around a hot-water bottle to loosen the creases before being reworked into another item.

Both Waller and Crawford have been astounded by the surge of interest they have received. "When I used to go to knitting shows 10 years ago, I was definitely in the minority as a younger woman," says Crawford. "But now the twenty- and thirtysomethings almost outnumber the more mature ladies. We even did a knitting tent at [summer Dorset festival] Camp Bestival where we had men, children, everyone trying it out. They might not all take it up, but a few will."

To what, then, do they attribute the public's burgeoning love of knitwear? "It's not just the fashionable thing to do at the moment," says Crawford "It now feels like the right thing. People want to get back in touch with being able to produce something themselves and not rely on a shop to give them what they need. I think people feel a little vulnerable that the world isn't always going to look after us, so we need to have the life skills to be able to look after themselves."

"It's addictive," adds Waller. "Once you realise you can make something beautiful, with far more personality than ready-to-wear clothes, you can't stop." You have been warned.

'A Stitch in Time: Knitting Patterns 1920-1949' by Jane Waller and Susan Crawford (Arbour House, £27.99), is available to pre-order from www.knitonthenet.com

Practical tips: Now sit up straight... it's your guide to knitting know-how

1. Always do a tension square (test swatch) of approximately 10cm. This will make sure that the number of stitches you knitin a square centimetre matches those of the pattern. If this is not correct, your finished project will come up the wrong size, wasting your time and yarn.

Your next step should be to wash this tension square, following the instructions on the label of your yarn. This way you can be sure that your finished garment will not shrink or stretch.

2. It may sound obvious, but take your own measurements and always compare these to those of the pattern.

3. Sit properly. Sit up straight with your feet in front of you. Your back should be well supported and legs uncrossed. Take plenty of rests to avoid stiffness in your hands.

4. Consider using finer yarns. A jumper can be can be made from only six to seven balls of four-ply yarn – about half the amount needed for many other yarn weights. Another plus is that finer yarns generally look much more flattering to the figure.

5. Remember that old jumpers can be unravelled and re-knitted to make a whole new garment. Retain oddments of wool for darning and sewing up.

6. Always keep a look out for original buttons and trimmings, which can go a long way towards making your garment even moreunique and creative.

The way we were: All sewn up

By Agnes Morgan

Agnes Morgan, 89, lived in south Wales and London during the 1940s and 1950s. She recalls:

"When I got married just after the end of the Second World War, the first piece of advice I was given was to invest in a good sewing machine. My wedding outfit was in fact a two-piece suit that a friend had made for me. Back then there was a Singer in most homes – they were an expensive buy, but they were worth it.

"I had learnt a little sewing at school – I remember making a baby's bib – but it was my mother and my grandmother who taught me the most. From very early on we were taught how to repair our own clothes, so one night a week was always darning night, when we stayed in to mend holes in woollen stockings and things.

"People didn't buy clothes in shops in the same way they do now. It was a question of money but also availability. If you wanted something you had to make it yourself, or find someone who could make it for you. The space given to haberdashery in department stores in those days was enormous. And as long as you could afford good fabric, you didn't feel you were hard done by at all. I remember travelling to Cardiff to buy a length of Harris tweed that I made into two very smart overcoats for myself and my younger sister.

"When my two daughters were born I made all their baby clothes. I rarely used patterns as the shapes were very simple – I could just look at other baby clothes to see how they were made. I did once buy a new American pattern for a layette [a complete set of articles for a newborn]; it had buttons all the way down the back, which was considered a very modern detail at the time. Later, I made them a lot of smocked dresses, which all had three-inch hems so they could grow with the girls.

"It wasn't just clothes I made. I bought fabric to make lampshades and curtains too. I made one pair of curtains in the 1950s that have moved house with me several times and are now hanging in my present home. They still look very good."