"There is a trend in beauty to make the wrongs right," says MAC's UK Director of Make-Up Artistry, Terry Barber. However, he's not referring to some sort of mystical cosmetic karma, but the cyclical rehabilitation of now-taboo trends, in this instance, winged eyeshadow. Not to be confused with flicked-out, Fifties liner à la Amy Winehouse, this is a streak of shadow more reminiscent of Krystle Carrington in "Dynasty", and it's currently enjoying a comeback.
If you need convincing, look no further than the recent pictures of Kate Moss (below) at the Metropolitan Museum's costume gala. The trendsetting model complemented a deep tan and a BacoFoil-look dress and turban with a sweep of browny-purple eyeshadow for a felicitously feline look. Roisin Murphy and Daisy Lowe have also been "winging it", so to speak.
The look might conjour up images of cumbersome teenage attempts at glamour, but done well, it evokes the late Seventies sultriness of Marie Helvin as photographed by David Bailey. The varied catwalk interpretations of the trend show that there's a lot more to it than Eighties excess or "power slap". Hip New York label Rodarte showed winged tangerine eyeshadow for a sensitive take on futurism, Bottega Veneta used a decidedly uptown streak of mocha shadow and Danielle Scutt's smoky eyed models oozed bad-gal attitude.
Barber suggests recreating the look with a shadow that has a soft, sheer metallic feel to it, rather than a product with an overly powdery texture. He recommends lining the upper eyelid from the inside corner to the outer edge, then, instead of extending the eyeliner, using a sweep of shadow, softening it towards the temple as if it's been airbrushed. Barber recommends Mac's kohl pencil in Phone Number, a smoky charcoal, which should be smudged and softened slightly and dotted in between the lashes, and the brand's eye shadow in Smut, a muted black flecked with a subtle red shimmer.
Barber's other, critical tips are to curl the eyelashes, and avoid strong eyebrows, in case the look tips from glamazon to punk.E