Fashion Statement: Change is easier to make when there are past masters to follow

It's always difficult, stepping into someone else's shoes – especially when you have high arches. And it's even more difficult when those shoes have been worn for so long and with such panache by their previous owner.

That said, there has been quite a bit of shoe-swapping on the fashion circuit this year: a series of industry switches and shifts that finally bore fruit this season, as we witnessed Jil Sander's return to her own label in Milan after an eight-year absence, as well as Raf Simons's and Hedi Slimane's ready-to-wear women's collections – for Dior and Yves Saint Laurent respectively – in Paris earlier this month.

That's the thing with fashion: while certain entities are untouchable, ineffable – sacred even – there's always clamour for something new or for a bit of a shake-up. Those who follow what happens on the catwalks love nothing more than some empty speculation about what might happen next – which perhaps goes some way towards explaining why, when the rest of us are wrapping up in warm jumpers, the fashion set are already planning their summer wardrobes.

But the very best fashion happens when the shoes fit properly, when the new pays lip service to the old and builds on what has gone before. Take Nicolas Ghesquière, whose 15 years at Balenciaga have seen the label become one of the loftiest around – his innovative ways with fabric and silhouette recall perfectly the ingenuity of the house's founding father Cristobal, whose original sartorial architecture is reworked and re-imagined by his successor in breathtakingly modern style season after season. Likewise, Riccardo Tisci's work at Givenchy right now, for all its attitude and aesthetic agitprop, lacks none of the elegance of M. Hubert's Sixties classics.

This season, Simons and Slimane looked to the archives for inspiration too: nostalgic bell-skirted gowns were overlaid with holographic organza at Dior, while Saint Laurent's trademark tuxes and Seventies safari suits were nipped in and updated by Slimane.

So stepping into those shoes, and writing this column, isn't so much a giant leap as a soft shuffle; I'm just wearing them in a bit and wriggling my toes around, finding my feet.

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
News in pictures
World news in pictures
Life & Style blogs

Where do most millionaires live in the UK?

Plus lateral thinking and living on London's waterways

Wandsworth tops aspiring young professionals hotspot list

Other popular areas include Didsbury, Clifton in Bristol, central Cambridge and West Bridgford

Christian GPs and the morning after pill: Much needed clarification

Doctors are allowed to have personal beliefs, just as long as these beliefs do not interfere with th...

       

ES Rentals

    Day In a Page

    Watch out Watford: Here comes the secretive Bilderberg Group

    Watch out Watford: Here comes the secretive Bilderberg Group

    A meeting of global power brokers in a Hertfordshire hotel is exciting conspiracy theorists, but what are they really about?
    'The ultimate all-in-one home entertainment system': Microsoft finally unveils its Xbox ONE console

    'The ultimate all-in-one home entertainment system'

    Microsoft finally unveils its Xbox ONE console
    Plenty of Fish dating site founder pulls 'Intimate Encounters' option to ward off sleazy men

    Plenty of sleaze

    Dating website pulls intimate 'hook-up' section to curb harassment
    Inferno author Dan Brown 'honoured' to be invited to join the Freemasons

    The Freemasons’ Code

    Dan Brown reveals the message that told him door to the lodge is open
    Not secure any more: G4S boss heads for exit at last

    Not secure any more: G4S boss heads for exit at last

    Nick Buckles survived the Olympics débâcle and a £5bn bid fiasco but a profit warning finally triggered his downfall
    How to say ‘I’m a sellout’: Tumblr’s David Karp’s message of reassurance to his staff sounded very familiar

    How to say ‘I’m a sellout’

    Tumblr’s David Karp’s message of reassurance to his staff sounded very familiar
    Why clubs are keen to take a stand

    Why clubs are keen to take a stand

    There's a real desire around the grounds for safe standing. But will the authorities listen?
    In the end the fans decided Tony Pulis had made a pig's ear of the job at Stoke City

    In the end the fans decided Tony Pulis had made a pig's ear of the job at Stoke City

    Disillusion with a siege mentality and negative playing style made change inevitable
    James Lawton: The James Hunt I knew is the subject of a new F1 movie

    James Lawton: The James Hunt I knew is the subject of a new F1 movie

    British driver was fascinating man whose epic duel with Niki Lauda in 1976 was typical of an era of glamour and glory – but also the ever-present threat of death
    Stuart Hogg: Ready to climb his own Everest

    Stuart Hogg: Ready to climb his own Everest

    Lions' cub, 20, joins long line of players from Scottish borders club Hawick given opportunity to make his mark at highest level
    Carl Froch handed rare chance of revenge with dream rematch

    Steve Bunce on Boxing

    Carl Froch handed rare chance of revenge with dream rematch against Mikel Kessler
    'There is a battle going on inside us that is never discussed'

    Masculinity in crisis?

    'There is a battle going on inside us that is never discussed'
    Have US shock jocks gone too far?

    Have US shock jocks gone too far?

    An incendiary remark from Rush Limbaugh may be the beginning of the end for outspoken right-wing US broadcasters
    The ‘Beverly Hills’ of Surrey pays more income tax than big cities of the North

    The ‘Beverly Hills’ of Surrey

    Elmbridge pays more income tax than big cities of the North
    Heavenly Bodies

    Heavenly Bodies

    Michael Landy's artistic marriage made in heaven... and hell