From rainy Milan to sunny Sicily: D&G goes for the burn
Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana took their audience from rainy Milan to sunny Sicily at yesterday's spring 2013 show. Wicker basket corsets, flour-sack minidresses and retro beachwear were served up to a soundtrack of Italian crooners with which the natives in the audience smiled and sang along.
Since they announced the closure of their D&G diffusion line just over a year ago, the duo has focused on opulent and luxurious clothing for an unapologetically high-end market, and held a debut haute couture show in Sicily last July.
The label also opened its newest boutique in Milan last week in the building that used to house the more affordable range. The designers now preside over an empire that consists not only of the current mainline mens and womenswear collections, handbags and accessories, but also now offers christening gowns and watches that cost hundreds of thousands, plus make-up and fragrance at slightly more accessible prices.
But the emphasis on workmanship as an investment was clear in lavish embroidery and embellishment – some pieces were encrusted with beading and even the naive deckchair-stripe cotton separates were knowingly embossed with a subtle brocade pattern. There was a sense of humour, as always, and a feel for the dramatic. The first look was a dress printed with red velvet curtains, opening to reveal the grinning puppets of Sicily's famed street theatres.
Models wore raffia and hessian-effect bustier dresses and the closing look – a wicker corset and farthingale draped with gossamer-light tulle – recalled cheery chianti baskets. Rather more stripped back was Consuelo Castiglione's collection earlier in the day at Marni. The designer contrasted clean and elegant minimalism with classic sophistication, giving a modern edge to pieces that clearly referenced traditional couture styles in sack-back coats, dropped shoulders and raglan sleeves.
Colours were characteristically challenging but the combinations worked, Castiglione at one point teaming burgundy with bubblegum pink.
Dresses and skirts were key, with dipped hems, streamlined, plain bibs, and volume at the back, a bustle effect that flared from high, directoire-style waistlines.
Family-run knitwear label Missoni was also on yesterday's schedule, and offered delicate and gauzy trapeze dresses worn over clinging layers of their trademark weaves.
Life & Style blogs
Plus lateral thinking and living on London's waterways
Other popular areas include Didsbury, Clifton in Bristol, central Cambridge and West Bridgford
Doctors are allowed to have personal beliefs, just as long as these beliefs do not interfere with th...
Living with Google Glass: what are they actually like to wear?
Mothers' diets may harm IQs in two-thirds of babies
Microsoft's Xbox One: Have the price (£399) and release date (30 November) been leaked by online retailer Zavvi?
The 10 Best road-trip gadgets
Splint made by 3D printer used to save baby’s life
- 1 'Sickening, deluded and unforgivable': Bloody attack brings terror to capital’s streets
- 2 Mothers' diets may harm IQs in two-thirds of babies
- 3 Far-right French historian, 78-year-old Dominique Venner, commits suicide in Notre Dame in protest against gay marriage
- 4 Eyewitness gives extraordinary account of her confrontation with Woolwich attackers
- 5 Woolwich attack: The EDL might have a sinister plan as a soldier is murdered in suspected Islamic terrorist attack
BMF is the UK’s biggest and best loved outdoor fitness classes
Find out what The Independent's resident travel expert has to say about one of the most beautiful small cities in the world
Win anything from gadgets to five-star holidays on our competitions and offers page.