London Collections showcases Britain’s best menswear designers

view gallery VIEW GALLERY

 

The final day of the inaugural London Collections: Men yesterday was a sublime mix of established stalwarts and bright young things with a canny eye on the commercial side.

An early morning wake up call came courtesy of JW Anderson takes pleasure in presenting collections that are “slightly off” and rib-knit flared trousers with matching jumpers and cardigans in beige and lilac were precisely that. Sheer organza tank tops, trousers and shirts plastered with flowers were interspersed with pinstripe polo shirts and trousers. All came served with flatform sandals, black head scarves and clutch bags - a directional look perhaps, but one which will surely be snapped up by the designer's growing following.

Margaret Howell showed a signature selection of lightweight workwear and summer tailoring in a palette of navy, grey and white with hints of burnt orange and khaki. Crisp white linen T-shirts and a rubberised anorak were modern classics and eminently wearable highlights from a designer who may not surprise but never disappoints.

Richard Nicoll's first foray into menswear showed an assured touch, perhaps gained through the designer's popular collections for Fred Perry. The references here were shared with the mod favourite label - bomber jackets and shorts in butter soft leather and cotton piqué reflected the designer's signature sportswear aesthetic. Intarsia blocks of colour, graphic lines and a neat silhouette created an example of a relaxed modern man all rendered in a spectrum of fresh blues, greys and white with enlivening flashes of yellow.

Enfants terrible Meadham Kirchhoff's presentation was an immersive experience: inviting voyeurs into a derelict squat filled with heady blooms, stuffed toys and the decaying detritus from one hell of a party. Models lounged around on broken cot beds in lurex skull caps and floral silk masks with intricately embellished goggles built in. The backs of cable knit jumpers were cropped to the shoulder blades and blue and fuchsia crystal laden kaftans were evocative of fragile souls dropping out in India after one too many Full Moon Party, but without any hint of a bourgeois gap yah-er.

Pringle of Scotland's signature argyle knits were present and correct in Alaistair Carr's last collection for the brand. Those familiar diamonds were wrought in lightweight cashmere and silk knits in heather and mustard. Knitwear was unsurprisingly a strong part of the collection, thanks also to optical honeycomb intarsia, and a playful interpretation of the house's classic twin sets resulted in knitted tops paired with matching printed shorts. Carr seemed to have hit his stride and had fun with the house's signatures, and it will certainly be interesting to see his next step.

Suggested Topics
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Business Development Manager - eCommerce - OTE £100k

    £50000 - £100000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This award-winning digital age...

    Recruitment Genius: Training and Development Consultant

    Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: This software development organisation are loo...

    Recruitment Genius: Digital Designer

    £25000 - £35000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This digital production agency ...

    Recruitment Genius: PHP Developer

    £35000 - £45000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This digital production agency ...

    Day In a Page

    Homeless Veterans campaign: Donations hit record-breaking £1m target after £300,000 gift from Lloyds Bank

    Homeless Veterans campaign

    Donations hit record-breaking £1m target after huge gift from Lloyds Bank
    Flight MH370 a year on: Lost without a trace – but the search goes on

    Lost without a trace

    But, a year on, the search continues for Flight MH370
    Germany's spymasters left red-faced after thieves break into brand new secret service HQ and steal taps

    Germany's spy HQ springs a leak

    Thieves break into new €1.5bn complex... to steal taps
    International Women's Day 2015: Celebrating the whirlwind wit of Simone de Beauvoir

    Whirlwind wit of Simone de Beauvoir

    Simone de Beauvoir's seminal feminist polemic, 'The Second Sex', has been published in short-form for International Women's Day
    Mark Zuckerberg’s hiring policy might suit him – but it wouldn’t work for me

    Mark Zuckerberg’s hiring policy might suit him – but it wouldn’t work for me

    Why would I want to employ someone I’d be happy to have as my boss, asks Simon Kelner
    Confessions of a planespotter: With three Britons under arrest in the UAE, the perils have never been more apparent

    Confessions of a planespotter

    With three Britons under arrest in the UAE, the perils have never been more apparent. Sam Masters explains the appeal
    Russia's gulag museum 'makes no mention' of Stalin's atrocities

    Russia's gulag museum

    Ministry of Culture-run site 'makes no mention' of Stalin's atrocities
    The big fresh food con: Alarming truth behind the chocolate muffin that won't decay

    The big fresh food con

    Joanna Blythman reveals the alarming truth behind the chocolate muffin that won't decay
    Virginia Ironside was my landlady: What is it like to live with an agony aunt on call 24/7?

    Virginia Ironside was my landlady

    Tim Willis reveals what it's like to live with an agony aunt on call 24/7
    Paris Fashion Week 2015: The wit and wisdom of Manish Arora's exercise in high camp

    Paris Fashion Week 2015

    The wit and wisdom of Manish Arora's exercise in high camp
    8 best workout DVDs

    8 best workout DVDs

    If your 'New Year new you' regime hasn’t lasted beyond February, why not try working out from home?
    Paul Scholes column: I don't believe Jonny Evans was spitting at Papiss Cissé. It was a reflex. But what the Newcastle striker did next was horrible

    Paul Scholes column

    I don't believe Evans was spitting at Cissé. It was a reflex. But what the Newcastle striker did next was horrible
    Miguel Layun interview: From the Azteca to Vicarage Road with a million followers

    From the Azteca to Vicarage Road with a million followers

    Miguel Layun is a star in Mexico where he was criticised for leaving to join Watford. But he says he sees the bigger picture
    Frank Warren column: Amir Khan ready to meet winner of Floyd Mayweather v Manny Pacquiao

    Khan ready to meet winner of Mayweather v Pacquiao

    The Bolton fighter is unlikely to take on Kell Brook with two superstar opponents on the horizon, says Frank Warren
    War with Isis: Iraq's government fights to win back Tikrit from militants - but then what?

    Baghdad fights to win back Tikrit from Isis – but then what?

    Patrick Cockburn reports from Kirkuk on a conflict which sectarianism has made intractable