Meet the menswear front row

Experts share the inside track –who they’ve got high hopes for this season, what they love about London fashion and their  survival tips for show time – with Rebecca Gonsalves

Catherine Hayward: Fashion director, Esquire

Last season I particularly liked seeing well-established names such as Spencer Hart, Rake and Richard James take to the runways.

It’s always inspiring to see how more traditional or wearable pieces can be reinterpreted for fashion week.

The initial reception in June at  St James’s Palace was unbeatable. What a strong endorsement for the week and an injection of royal support for the menswear industry in general is just what it needs. Prince Charles looked suitably dapper in his Anderson & Sheppard navy suit as he talked to the line-up of nervous young designers assembled in the Palace.

The hot tickets this time around will be Alexander McQueen and Tom Ford. London Collections: Men (LC:M) is still in its infancy so the support of global labels in London is vital to its survival.

London offers ideas and a sense of humour that are really special – and restorative macaroni cheese at the counter at Mishkin’s in Covent Garden! Esquire is celebrating the launch of Hilfiger tailoring at a party this evening – it’s the perfect way to get all our industry friends and clients under one roof for a gossip, a catch-up and a drink.

Dylan Jones: Editor-in-Chief, GQ Style

I love the diversity of London shows – from Savile Row to Shoreditch and all points in between – that’s what we [Jones is chair of the BFC’s menswear committee] tried to reflect with LC:M. We weren’t trying to replicate the well-run machines of Milan, Paris or New York - they’re trade fairs when push comes to shove.

We also encouraged big American designers such as Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren to participate. Honestly, if you needed to show in Europe wouldn’t you rather show in London than Milan? Our economy is certainly in better shape. This isn’t a vanity exercise – we initiated it because of a genuine demand among British designers. For the second season we have fielded more calls than we’ve made.

This season I’m looking forward to seeing some of the new big names such as Vivienne Westwood, while having Tom Ford dump Milan for London is extremely gratifying. I’d love to tempt Burberry on to the London schedule too. Shall I say that again? Burberry!

My key autumn/winter buys are blue suits – as always – and hopefully that’ll be a trend that re-emerges.

David Gandy: Model

I don’t believe in following trends,  I think individuality is more important to focus on – but of course, being London fashion, the new season is sure to focus heavily on tailoring. Last season Hackett’s show stood out for me – I’ve admired what Hackett has been doing for a while and it represented what English style is quintessentially about.

We have such heritage here – from Vivienne Westwood to Savile Row. Last year, Prince Charles opened the collections – and that’s something the other fashion capitals just can’t compete with. The Royal Opera House is the most stunning show venue. It adds to the drama, too.

I hardly buy anything for winter. Once you get the essentials in your wardrobe you can add little touches in future years, but the staples stay the same. I have a couple of suits being tailored but that’s about it.

Being on the committee for LC:M I try to go to as many parties and events as possible and support as many people as I can, it’s just a pleasure to be part of it. We should be very proud that men’s fashion has a dedicated few days to really shout about what we can do.

Reece Crisp: Menswear buyer, Selfridges

Jonathan Saunders felt like a real standout show last season. It ticked  all the boxes – an amazing space, beautifully presented and a really strong collection. I think everyone’s looking forward to what he does next, too. I’m excited about the dinner we’re hosting for him in our Old Hotel space. It’s going to be something really special and different to the approach we’ve taken before.

It’s great to see Alexander McQueen on the schedule – it feels like proof, were it needed – that  LC:M is getting meaningful recognition at a global level. My real one-to-watch is Hunter Gather.

As a progression from the streetwear explosion in recent months, this time around, I think brands will move towards mixing streetwear and tailoring in a more cleverly considered way. Think suited-and-booted with an MA-1 bomber and a pair of sneakers.

I hate mess so I’m usually quite good at keeping my flat in shape at show time – we’ll see though, it’s the first time London has been this early in the season. I always decide what to wear in the morning – but comfy shoes and Berocca on hand at all times get me through the days.

Adam Welch: Editor, Wonderland

It was brilliant to see Meadham Kirchhoff doing menswear again, especially seeing as they went for a presentation. You wandered round this slightly creepy environment with models staring into nothing, surrounded by fagends and Cash-in-the-Attic-esque ornaments.  It was a great summing-up of what’s cool about London – ingenious, fun and all-out wrong. Another part of what is really great about it is that it’s not all mega-brands hosting book launches and cocktail parties with foie gras macaroons.

I don’t think London menswear is quite finished with the Nineties, so I imagine there’ll be a bit more of the slacker/grunge aesthetic this time around: rips, tie-dye, denim, florals. This is the first time Shaun Samson will have a standalone show and I’m sure he’s going to come up with something brilliant. I also think there’s another thread of razor-sharp sportswear that Richard Nicoll, Lou Dalton and Lee Roach did very nicely last season.

One of the blue macs from Richard Nicoll is top of my shopping list – or maybe a jacquard- knit suit from Missoni. I don’t know where I’d wear the latter but that’s not really the point is it?

Jodie Harrison: Editor, Mr Porter

I always enjoy the Oliver Spencer show. He makes great, wearable British menswear pieces and puts on a show that makes you actually want to buy the clothes – which is what it’s all about. His casting is also pitch-perfect: a group of cool blokes you would like to know.

I really loved E Tautz’s choice of venue last season, too. Lots of people grumbled and griped about the early morning trek to Wapping but we were all greeted with stunning, sun-drenched views of the Thames and Canary Wharf.

Retro sunglasses and spectacles are not going anywhere soon and for good reason – they just make men look cool. Oliver Peoples and Persol just keep getting better. The bomber jacket is another piece that shows no signs of losing favour.

We have this hotbed of young, creative upstarts. I actually think the recession has really fuelled London’s creativity – making people look for new ways to make it all work.

January is a particularly long run of events and shows and one early night at the start is important so as not to peak too soon. Then, at the end, I usually reward myself with a facial and massage at Espa Life at the Corinthia Hotel.

PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Life and Style
ebooksFrom the lifespan of a slug to the distance to the Sun: answers to 500 questions from readers
News
Teeth should be brushed twice a day to prevent tooth decay
education
News
Bryan Cranston as Walter White, in the acclaimed series 'Breaking Bad'
news
Sport
footballChelsea 6 Maribor 0: Blues warm up for Premier League showdown with stroll in Champions League - but Mourinho is short of strikers
News
Those who were encouraged to walk in a happy manner remembered less negative words
science
Arts and Entertainment
Princess Olga in 'You Can't Get the Staff'
tvReview: The anachronistic aristocrats, it seemed, were just happy to have some attention
News
Renee Zellweger as Bridget Jones
i100
Life and Style
tech

Board creates magnetic field to achieve lift

News
There have been various incidents of social media users inadvertently flouting the law
news

Life and Style
Stack ‘em high?: quantity doesn’t always trump quality, as Friends of the Earth can testify
techThe proliferation of online petitions allows us to register our protests at the touch of a button. But do they change anything?
News
Bourgogne wine maker Laboure-Roi vice president Thibault Garin (L) offers the company's 2013 Beaujolais Nouveau wine to the guest in the wine spa at the Hakone Yunessun spa resort facilities in Hakone town, Kanagawa prefecture, some 100-kilometre west of Tokyo
i100
Sport
CSKA Moscow celebrate after equalising with a late penalty
footballCSKA Moscow 2 Manchester City 2: Premier League champions let two goal lead slip in Russia
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    IT Project Manager

    Competitive: Clearwater People Solutions Ltd: Our client based in Chelmsford a...

    Business Intelligence Specialist - work from home

    £40000 per annum: Ashdown Group: An established and growing IT Consultancy fir...

    Business Intelligence Specialist - work from home

    £40000 per annum: Ashdown Group: An established and growing IT Consultancy fir...

    IT Manager

    £40000 - £45000 per annum + pension, healthcare,25 days: Ashdown Group: An est...

    Day In a Page

    Indiana serial killer? Man arrested for murdering teenage prostitute confesses to six other murders - and police fear there could be many more

    A new American serial killer?

    Police fear man arrested for murder of teen prostitute could be responsible for killing spree dating back 20 years
    Sweetie, the fake 10-year-old girl designed to catch online predators, claims her first scalp

    Sting to trap paedophiles may not carry weight in UK courts

    Computer image of ‘Sweetie’ represented entrapment, experts say
    Fukushima nuclear crisis: Evacuees still stuck in cramped emergency housing three years on - and may never return home

    Return to Fukushima – a land they will never call home again

    Evacuees still stuck in cramped emergency housing three years on from nuclear disaster
    Wildlife Photographer of the Year: Intimate image of resting lions claims top prize

    Wildlife Photographer of the Year

    Intimate image of resting lions claims top prize
    Online petitions: Sign here to change the world

    Want to change the world? Just sign here

    The proliferation of online petitions allows us to register our protests at the touch of a button. But do they change anything?
    Ed Sheeran hits back after being labelled too boring to headline festivals

    'You need me, I don’t need you'

    Ed Sheeran hits back after being labelled too boring to headline festivals
    How to Get Away with Murder: Shonda Rhimes reinvents the legal drama

    How to Get Away with Murder

    Shonda Rhimes reinvents the legal drama
    A cup of tea is every worker's right

    Hard to swallow

    Three hospitals in Leicester have banned their staff from drinking tea and coffee in public areas. Christopher Hirst explains why he thinks that a cuppa is every worker's right
    Which animals are nearly extinct?

    Which animals are nearly extinct?

    Conservationists in Kenya are in mourning after the death of a white northern rhino, which has left the species with a single male. These are the other species on the brink
    12 best children's shoes

    Perfect for leaf-kicking: 12 best children's shoes

    Find footwear perfect to keep kids' feet protected this autumn
    Anderlecht vs Arsenal: Gunners' ray of light Aaron Ramsey shines again

    Arsenal’s ray of light ready to shine again

    Aaron Ramsey’s injury record has prompted a club investigation. For now, the midfielder is just happy to be fit to face Anderlecht in the Champions League
    Comment: David Moyes' show of sensitivity thrown back in his face by former Manchester United manager Sir Alex Ferguson

    Moyes’ show of sensitivity thrown back in his face... by Ferguson

    Manchester United legend tramples on successor who resisted criticising his inheritance
    Two super-sized ships have cruised into British waters, but how big can these behemoths get?

    Super-sized ships: How big can they get?

    Two of the largest vessels in the world cruised into UK waters last week
    British doctors on brink of 'cure' for paralysis with spinal cord treatment

    British doctors on brink of cure for paralysis

    Sufferers can now be offered the possibility of cure thanks to a revolutionary implant of regenerative cells
    Ranked seventh in world’s best tourist cities - not London, or Edinburgh, but Salisbury

    Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel 2015

    UK city beats Vienna, Paris and New York to be ranked seventh in world’s best tourist destinations - but it's not London