Milan Fashion Week: Who is the ideal woman for Versace? Ask Donatella

 

Milan

Plenty of designers prattle on about “their woman”. But who, precisely, is she? She cuts a hazy, frequently crazy figure whose interests oscillate wildly, from contemporary art, to scuba diving, to eighteenth-century history. Her main interest is spending lots of money on clothes. Other than that, she’s something of an enigma.

Donatella Versace, by contrast, knows exactly who her woman is. It’s herself: a woman who dresses to be sexy, who maintains her appearance with a ferocious intensity, whose wardrobe staple is Versace. Like the label that bears her surname, Donatella doesn’t dress down. Incidentally, this year Donatella is going to the Oscars. She’s packing two Versace evening gowns. What else could she need?

For autumn/winter 2014, however, Donatella wanted to appeal to the new Versace woman. What was new? She summed it up best: “less complicated, more liberated, very sensual”. She’s been experimenting with bias cutting, lending a supple fluidity and sensuality, rather than sexuality, to the collection. “It caresses your body,” she purred. That was evident in a quartet of slinking, body-moulding evening gowns, but it also animated hems of sprightly daywear in black, white and clashes of lapis and cyclamen.

Gianni Versace’s personal collections of uniforms surrendered the embellishment. Indeed, Donatella said her woman this season was decorated: but in the military sense, rather than Versace’s usual razzmatazz shenanigans. They were there again, of course: a trio of bead-bedecked numbers were a tour de force of pleated leather, studs and the kind of cantilever engineers usually employ to ensure bridges don’t collapse. Here, it shields wealthy wearers from a wardrobe malfunction.

But, with sleek coats and tuxedos, as well as those slender bias day-dresses, this collection forced the point that glitz isn’t the sum total of the house’s aesthetic. It was a quieter side of Versace, but no less emphatic.

Elsewhere, Alessandra Facchinetti’s Tod’s collections are terribly quiet. Her debut was too quiet for its own good. This one was more forceful and more identifiable. There was too much fur – an easy tag-on to bump up prices – and a few too many tricksy details, like external pockets flapping at hips. Those are niggles: the overall message was a modern way of dressing sumptuously, in silks, cashmeres and lots of luscious leather.

News
people And here is why...
Arts and Entertainment
Amazon has added a cautionary warning to Tom and Jerry cartoons on its streaming service
tv
Voices
voicesBy the man who has
Sport
Arsene Wenger tried to sign Eden Hazard
footballAfter 18 years with Arsenal, here are 18 things he has still never done as the Gunners' manager
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Life and Style
ebooksFrom the lifespan of a slug to the distance to the Sun: answers to 500 questions from readers
Life and Style
The new Windows 10 Start Menu
tech
Arts and Entertainment
Kristen Stewart and Robert Pattinson star in The Twilight Saga but will not be starring in the new Facebook mini-movies
tvKristen Stewart and Stephenie Meyer will choose female directrs
Arts and Entertainment
Hilary North's 'How My Life Has Changed', 2001
books(and not a Buzzfeed article in sight)
News
William Hague
people... when he called Hague the county's greatest
News
More than 90 years of car history are coming to an end with the abolition of the paper car-tax disc
newsThis and other facts you never knew about the paper circle - completely obsolete today
Arts and Entertainment
There has been a boom in ticket sales for female comics, according to an industry survey
comedyFirst national survey reveals Britain’s comedic tastes
Arts and Entertainment
Twerking girls: Miley Cyrus's video for 'Wrecking Ball'
arts + ents
Arts and Entertainment
Ed Sheeran performs at his Amazon Front Row event on Tuesday 30 September
musicHe spotted PM at private gig
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    General Cover Teacher

    £120 - £125 per day: Randstad Education Luton: Currently looking for teachers ...

    SEN Teaching Assistant Runcorn

    £50 per day: Randstad Education Cheshire: SEN Teaching Assistant EBD , Septemb...

    QA/BA - Agile

    £400 Per Day: Clearwater People Solutions Ltd: Our client are currently seekin...

    PPA Supply Teachers

    £121 - £142 per day: Randstad Education Luton: Early Years, KS1 & 2 Prima...

    Day In a Page

    Ebola outbreak: The children orphaned by the virus – then rejected by surviving relatives over fear of infection

    The children orphaned by Ebola...

    ... then rejected by surviving relatives over fear of infection
    Pride: Are censors pandering to homophobia?

    Are censors pandering to homophobia?

    US film censors have ruled 'Pride' unfit for under-16s, though it contains no sex or violence
    The magic of roundabouts

    Lords of the rings

    Just who are the Roundabout Appreciation Society?
    Why do we like making lists?

    Notes to self: Why do we like making lists?

    Well it was good enough for Ancient Egyptians and Picasso...
    Hong Kong protests: A good time to open a new restaurant?

    A good time to open a new restaurant in Hong Kong?

    As pro-democracy demonstrators hold firm, chef Rowley Leigh, who's in the city to open a new restaurant, says you couldn't hope to meet a nicer bunch
    Paris Fashion Week: Karl Lagerfeld leads a feminist riot on 'Boulevard Chanel'

    Paris Fashion Week

    Lagerfeld leads a feminist riot on 'Boulevard Chanel'
    Bruce Chatwin's Wales: One of the finest one-day walks in Britain

    Simon Calder discovers Bruce Chatwin's Wales

    One of the finest one-day walks you could hope for - in Britain
    10 best children's nightwear

    10 best children's nightwear

    Make sure the kids stay cosy on cooler autumn nights in this selection of pjs, onesies and nighties
    Manchester City vs Roma: Five things we learnt from City’s draw at the Etihad

    Manchester City vs Roma

    Five things we learnt from City’s Champions League draw at the Etihad
    Martin Hardy: Mike Ashley must act now and end the Alan Pardew reign

    Trouble on the Tyne

    Ashley must act now and end Pardew's reign at Newcastle, says Martin Hardy
    Isis is an hour from Baghdad, the Iraq army has little chance against it, and air strikes won't help

    Isis an hour away from Baghdad -

    and with no sign of Iraq army being able to make a successful counter-attack
    Turner Prize 2014 is frustratingly timid

    Turner Prize 2014 is frustratingly timid

    The exhibition nods to rich and potentially brilliant ideas, but steps back
    Last chance to see: Half the world’s animals have disappeared over the last 40 years

    Last chance to see...

    The Earth’s animal wildlife population has halved in 40 years
    So here's why teenagers are always grumpy - and it's not what you think

    Truth behind teens' grumpiness

    Early school hours mess with their biological clocks
    Why can no one stop hackers putting celebrities' private photos online?

    Hacked photos: the third wave

    Why can no one stop hackers putting celebrities' private photos online?