Seven days of chic in New York

view gallery VIEW GALLERY

From supermodels to supernatural models, the New York shows brought with them structured sportswear and eclectic layering, says Agata Belcen

Kicking off the autumn/winter 2012 show schedule in suitably bold fashion, the New York collections were awash with shades of red, from pillar-box to oxblood.

There was lacquered leather, too, knee-high boots, supermodels and, as always, plenty of fur – on the streets as well as the runways. The wind cut through coats on the way to the shows on the pier: a quick, cold gust to catch your attention and sharpen your senses for the coming season.

Marc Jacobs

The shoes looked Pilgrimesque, apart from the rhinestone buckle and flowers; the calf-length skirts and A-line wool coats matronly were it not for psychedelic print. The construction of each ensemble was a triumph of the imagination at Marc Jacobs. Contained within the collection – leather and lace, print and sparkle, cropped, long and oversized.

Calvin Klein

Klein's models had their hair slicked down with a reflective sheen, and there were a few black, short-cropped styles also worn close to the head, reminiscent of early Yohji Yamamoto. Metal bands, worn as belts, gathered voluminous dresses in at the waist to create feminine shapes in a beautiful, minimal approach to romance, with simple evening dresses drawing attention to the hips and breasts.

Marc By Marc Jacobs

Stern caps and heavy boots became the upper and lower borders of a cathode ray tube within which all manner of prints flickered: florals, chequerboards, polka dots and tartans gave the feel of a cocktail party at a Russian military research facility in some alternative 1993, where the USSR had yet to fall. Comrade Jacobs' own federal union has never been mightier or more ubiquitous.

Proenza Schouler

New York has revelled in sportswear this season, with designers engrossed in knee-high boots and outerwear. At Proenza, narrow strips of the fabric were woven into a grid on skirts and dresses or cut-out to form an exoskeleton jacket. But what made this collection their own was the textures and detailing in their brocades.

Jason Wu

New York loves Jason Wu and, although he has yet make the same impact in Europe, tastes are warming to his style. He showed his increasing presence by sending down a veritable army of models and they marched to his tripartite vision of China: Mao-inspired uniform, the embellished shine of the Qing Dynasty and 1940s Sino-Hollywood.

Victoria Beckham

Although there was none of the corsetry of previous seasons, there was so much constriction in Beckham's collection you felt short of breath just watching it: where there weren't tight double belts, there were stripes that looked like them and black tromp l'oeil panels that repainted the silhouette into an even more striking hourglass.

Ralph Lauren

Opening with the Downton Abbey theme tune, Lauren explored women's rights and appropriate antebellum modes of behaviour, dressing the lady as country gentleman. There was a series of professionals: the lawyer in herringbone tweed; a bowler-hatted banker; the doctor with a mini-alligator medical case, all adorned with caps and peacock feathers.

Alexander Wang

Wang's show commenced with a hullaballoo around South African band Die Antwoord and ended with cheers for the finale ensemble of models, which included Carmen Kass, Shalom Harlow and Gisele. The collection comprised fabrics that Wang had himself custom developed – lacquered tweed, waxed suede, vinyl, shrink-wrap jacquard knits – all cut with precision and compiled in a restrained palette.

Rodarte

The Mulleavy sisters draw deeply from film history, often titles that convey a sense of wonder and magical romance, such as The Wizard of Oz or Sleeping Beauty. Romance manifested itself in dropped waists and lace collars that looked like they were floating. An early 20th century look in the double-breasted coats, jackets and loose sleeves gave the collection a strong vintage feel.

Donna Karan

Thirties gangsters and Marlene Dietrich were a welcome, flamboyant and cartoonish presence in Donna Karan's collection. Wide lapels and shoulders on reworked double-breasted suit jackets brought to mind urban fat cats. Citing architecture as one of her references, it's clear that Karan's well-documented association with New York City hasn't disappeared – merely re-imagined into one with Gotham City.

Manhattan Moments

Thom Browne

This presentation was a Tim Burton-esque affair. Performed to the theme tune from Edward Scissorhands, it was an ode to 10 fictional women who had died for fashion. Ten suits lay in 10 coffins, but when the music started, they stood up and more models looped around them wearing a sculptural collection of voluminous proportions.

Diane Von Furstenberg

Yvan Mispelaere is now in his second year at Diane von Furstenberg and the collections have become more and more compelling with each season. Particularly delightful, seen later at the showroom appointment, were handbags embellished with surrealist motifs such as eyes and keyholes.

Voices
On the last day of campaigning before the polling booths open, the SNP leader has written to voters in a final attempt to convince them to vote for independence
voicesIs a huge gamble on oil keeping the First Minister up at night?
Sport
A 'Sir Alex Feguson' tattoo
football

Arts and Entertainment
Liam Neeson said he wouldn't
tv

Liam Neeson's Downton dreams

Voices
voicesApple continually kill off smaller app developers, and that's no good for anyone
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebooksA superb mix of recipes serving up the freshest of local produce in a delicious range of styles
Life and Style
ebooksFrom the lifespan of a slug to the distance to the Sun: answers to 500 questions from readers
Arts and Entertainment
Ben Whishaw is replacing Colin Firth as the voice of Paddington Bear
tv

Thriller is set in the secret world of British espionage

Life and Style
life

News
ScienceGallery: Otherwise known as 'the best damn photos of space you'll see till 2015'
Travel
travelWhy Japan's love hotels are thriving through an economic downturn
Life and Style
fashion

Bomber jacket worn by Mary Berry sells out within an hour

Life and Style
Alexander McQueen A/W 2014
fashionPolitics aside, tartan is on-trend again this season
Arts and Entertainment
Rapper Jay Z performs on the Pyramid Stage at Glastonbury in 2008
musicSinger sued over use of the single-syllable sample in 'Run This Town'
Sport
Joel jumps over the board...and into a giant hole
footballFrom joy to despair in a matter of seconds
News
i100
Arts and Entertainment
Pointless host Alexander Armstrong will voice Danger Mouse on CBBC
tv

Much-loved cartoon character returns - without Sir David Jason

Arts and Entertainment
Meera Syal was a member of the team that created Goodness Gracious Me
tv

Actress to appear in second series of the hugely popular crime drama

Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Volunteer your expertise as Trustee for The Society of Experimental Biology

    Unpaid Voluntary Position : Reach Volunteering: Promising volunteer Trustee op...

    Email Designer

    £30000 - £35000 Per Annum: Clearwater People Solutions Ltd: Our client is curr...

    Psychology Teacher

    £110 - £130 per hour: Randstad Education Reading: Psychology Teacher needed fo...

    Food Technology Teacher

    £85 - £120 per day: Randstad Education Cheshire: Randstad Education are curren...

    Day In a Page

    Mystery of the Ground Zero wedding photo

    A shot in the dark

    Mystery of the wedding photo from Ground Zero
    His life, the universe and everything

    His life, the universe and everything

    New biography sheds light on comic genius of Douglas Adams
    Save us from small screen superheroes

    Save us from small screen superheroes

    Shows like Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D are little more than marketing tools
    Reach for the skies

    Reach for the skies

    From pools to football pitches, rooftop living is looking up
    These are the 12 best hotel spas in the UK

    12 best hotel spas in the UK

    Some hotels go all out on facilities; others stand out for the sheer quality of treatments
    These Iranian-controlled Shia militias used to specialise in killing American soldiers. Now they are fighting Isis, backed up by US airstrikes

    Widespread fear of Isis is producing strange bedfellows

    Iranian-controlled Shia militias that used to kill American soldiers are now fighting Isis, helped by US airstrikes
    Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

    Topshop goes part Athena poster, part last spring Prada

    Shoppers don't come to Topshop for the unique
    How to make a Lego masterpiece

    How to make a Lego masterpiece

    Toy breaks out of the nursery and heads for the gallery
    Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

    Meet the ‘Endies’ – city dwellers who are too poor to have fun

    Urbanites are cursed with an acronym pointing to Employed but No Disposable Income or Savings
    Paisley’s decision to make peace with IRA enemies might remind the Arabs of Sadat

    Ian Paisley’s decision to make peace with his IRA enemies

    His Save Ulster from Sodomy campaign would surely have been supported by many a Sunni imam
    'She was a singer, a superstar, an addict, but to me, her mother, she is simply Amy'

    'She was a singer, a superstar, an addict, but to me, her mother, she is simply Amy'

    Exclusive extract from Janis Winehouse's poignant new memoir
    Is this the role to win Cumberbatch an Oscar?

    Is this the role to win Cumberbatch an Oscar?

    The Imitation Game, film review
    England and Roy Hodgson take a joint step towards redemption in Basel

    England and Hodgson take a joint step towards redemption

    Welbeck double puts England on the road to Euro 2016
    Relatives fight over Vivian Maier’s rare photos

    Relatives fight over Vivian Maier’s rare photos

    Pictures removed from public view as courts decide ownership
    ‘Fashion has to be fun. It’s a big business, not a cure for cancer’

    ‘Fashion has to be fun. It’s a big business, not a cure for cancer’

    Donatella Versace at New York Fashion Week