Susannah Frankel: 'Rankin Waddell has transformed what some might consider a fairly dubious concept into highly entertaining TV'

It says quite something for the impish charm of Rankin Waddell that he manages to transform what some might consider a fairly dubious concept into highly entertaining TV. In 'Seven Photographs That Changed Fashion', the photographer and co-founder of 'Dazed & Confused' magazine recreates some of the most iconic images in fashion photography, using them not only as a vehicle via which to reveal many of the secrets of the process behind their creation but also as a playful romp through the history of the genre.

"This makes me feel like a bit of a thief," Rankin declares towards the end of the show, surveying his finished work – which is, essentially, the driving force behind the whole shebang. Having said that, he adds: "Unlike a few photographers I might mention, at least I'm happy to admit it." Fair enough. Cecil Beaton's classic 'Hat Box' is lovingly reinterpreted using Sophie Ellis-Bextor as a model, and a rather more cheeky black hat than the seriously haute panama in the original – the new one's courtesy of Stephen Jones. Erwin Blumenfeld's surrealistically inspired and ground-breaking 'Vogue' cover, for which the model's face was reduced to a single smoky eye, an arched eyebrow and a crimson mouth, is re-shot and cast with Heidi Klum in the starring role. She sticks her tongue out playfully and Rankin is very happy about that. Erin O'Connor plays Dovima complete with elephants in an homage to the 1950s photographic giant Richard Avedon's most famous work. "That's the first time I've taken a photograph and not known what to say," ponders Rankin, clearly in awe of the scale and magnificence of the beasts in question. (The elephants, that is, not Erin O'Connor.)

Rankin being Rankin, access is privileged. Guy Bourdin's assistant of five years, Icaro Kosak, visits the shoot on the day when it is this legendary name's turn to come under scrutiny – Daphne Guinness is the subject here and her tights are red as opposed to her hair. Bourdin, probably the most copied fashion photographer in the world, was a man obsessed, Kosak says, often waiting for days on end for just the right shot. "He was like an enraged faun," when he worked, apparently. "I'm more like a fat rabbit," Rankin opines.

Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts and David Bailey all have their moment here. The latter goes so far as to attend the shoot during which Rankin composes his own version of a 1963 portrait of Jean Shrimpton. Just as Shrimpton was Bailey's lover at the time, Rankin, on this occasion, casts his own girlfriend, Tuuli. "Not bad," says Bailey. "I think it's my favourite of the lot," adds Rankin sweetly.

'Seven Photographs That Changed Fashion' BBC4, 14 January