Susannah Shops: Change is in this season
For reasons of decorum – and cash flow – and with the summer's key buys under my tan leather belt, last week seemed a good point to sit back and take stock, to reflect sagely as opposed to shop rapaciously... It may seem previous but the autumn pre-collections drop next month and, with designer fashion in such a state of flux, shopping might not unreasonably be seen as lifetime investment over and above mere instant gratification just now. Great. As if I needed another excuse.
Next season is the last chance to buy Hannah MacGibbon for Chloe, Christophe Decarnin for Balmain and, most likely, John Galliano's final designs for his eponymous label (below), for the foreseeable future at least. I love what MacGibbon does, so I may find myself shopping at Chloe, although it's safe to assume that she'll find her feet elsewhere before too long. Decarnin's Balmain – the designer reportedly failed to turn up for his last show and is suffering from exhaustion – was a step forward this season, but still one too literally bathed in nostalgia for the 1970s to suit my taste.
Galliano's collection is on another level. Given his longevity – he graduated from Central Saint Martins in 1984 – the influence he has wielded over international fashion, not least as creative director of Christian Dior, and the beauty of his designs, this is fashion history, surely, whatever his recent behaviour.
In an ideal world, it should be a designer's choice when he or she steps down. Take Yves Saint Laurent's swan-song collection, shown at the Pompidou Centre in 2002, that saw sales at that label soaring; or, indeed, Valentino Garavani's final outing in 2008; equally well received.
Sadly, only very few have the power to control their owns exits in quite so elaborately stage-managed a way. A bias-cut gown? A Paul Poiret-inspired opera coat? The languid tailoring with which John Galliano made his name? Methinks I'll need to start saving now.
Susannah Frankel is Fashion Editor of 'The Independent'
Life & Style blogs
YouTube star Loey Lane hits back at hateful comments about ‘fat girls in bikinis’ and how plus-size women promote obesity
Sugary drinks are killing 184,000 adults around the world every year, says study
The age of inactivity: How laziness is killing us
What do the emojis on Snapchat mean?
iPhone 7: Force Touch phones are being prepared for launch, say reports
- 1 Kim Jong-un shows off airport designed by architect he likely had executed
- 2 Michael Douglas regrets 'embarrassing' Catherine Zeta-Jones with oral sex comments
- 3 Tunisia hotel attack: Locals form 'human shield' to protect hotel from gunman Seifeddine Rezgui
- 4 Tunisian builder has been hailed a hero after knocking gunman to the ground with roof tiles
- 5 German ethics council calls for incest between siblings to be legalised by Government
£15000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: One of the largest hospitality companies...
£28000 - £32000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: As a result of significant cont...
£16575 - £19000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: An excellent opportunity is ava...
£30000 - £35000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This leading and innovative con...