The boys are back: The labels to watch at London's men's fashion week
From Alexander McQueen's razor-sharp suiting to JW Anderson's bandeau tops, Alexander Fury reveals what will be in vogue this autumn.
Alexander Fury is a fashion journalist, author and critic. He is fashion editor of the Independent, i and the Independent on Sunday newspapers and was awarded the inaugural Editorial Intelligence Award for Fashion Commentator of the Year 2014-15. He was named one of InStyle magazine's 20 most powerful people in fashion in 2015.
Saturday 15 June 2013
Alexander McQueen – man, and house – always had a feeling for the dark side. It's entirely appropriate therefore that their first menswear showcase in London conjured up the legendary maleficence of Victorian East Ender, Jack the Ripper, models stalking a disused Clerkenwell pub in sinister acrylic masks. Despite the theatrics, it was the razor-sharp suiting that left a lasting impression.
The humble sweater has been far too shy and retiring these past few years. Enter Sibling, and exit three- versus four-ply. Think broomstick-sized needles, woolly-mammoth sweaters that demand serious muscle to haul, and gargantuan mittens the size of oven-mitts, all in granny-friendly pastels. Natty, knitty, and very witty.
Shannon got tired of how clean his sportswear signature started to look. So he watched umpteen episodes of BBC's Hoarders and decided to dress up to mess up for winter, mangling and morphing together, say, a denim jacket, leather blouson and sweatshirt into a single polymorphous piece. The half-n-half chopped-up knits were standouts well worth hoarding.
Ruffles, bandeau tops, knee-high boots over bare legs, and lots and lots of skirts. JW Anderson knows how to push the kind of buttons that irritates middle England while delighting the fashion press. But with his latest offering for autumn, and its resetting of proportions, that button-pushing may be pushing fashion somewhere new.
Hard times call for hard clothes? That's not really Richard Nicoll's bag. He may have been inspired by industry and revolution, but he wrapped it in kid mohair and bi-coloured cashmere suiting. Even a paint-splatter print ended up resembling marble rather than mistakes. Never mind the Pollocks.
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