The ones to watch: fresh designer names

view gallery VIEW GALLERY

A new season means plenty of fresh designer names. Rebecca Gonsalves helps you stay ahead of the pack

As a new fashion season is ushered in, with it will come a host of new names to watch as boutiques and department stores proudly champion the pieces their buyers have tracked down on their travels.

To gain the buyers' attention in the first place, though not quite a formula, there are a few boxes which it helps to be able to tick.

A pedigree of provenance is usually essential – with stints at big fashion houses peppering designer biographies and showroom floors littered with the dropped names of celebrity fans. The stamp of approval from respected editors doesn't hurt either.

Filling your wardrobe with a range of under-the-radar names has long been the way to stay on the cutting edge – fashion, film, music and more all thrive on the cult of the new. And every household name has to start somewhere.

Manuela Dack

The Shop at Bluebird

Layers of leather and silk are the cornerstone of this young London-based designer's collections, which showcase a crisp, minimal aesthetic. "We have seen an amazing response to Manuela Dack, who is popular with clients looking for innovative statement pieces," says Paul Baptiste, head buyer at The Shop at Bluebird. Intricate crafted details such as beaded fringing, embroidery and hand-dying are incorporated into the collection, which draws on Dack's memories of growing up on the remote Caribbean island of Grand Cayman. 350 Kings Road London, SW3 5UU, 020 7351 3873

Jacquemus

Dover Street Market

For his latest collection, "le chenil" – which translates as the doghouse – Simon Jacquemus took inspiration from the simple robes his mother wore at home in the south of France. Playing around with the idea of creating a uniform, the pieces are austere and simple, and most importantly comfortable with the uniforms of hospital nurses inspiring the five-colour palette. 17-18 Dover Street, London W1S 4LT 020 7518 0680

Annelise Michelson

Kabiri

Parisian-born and raised Michelson developed her vision of couture and glamour during stints with Hermès, Vanessa Bruno, and Paul and Joe. Following a collaboration with Carine Roitfeld for French Vogue, her first collection marries neo-Gothic and New Romantic inspirations. "I'm really excited about Annelise Michelson," says Nathalie Kabiri, buyer for the jewellery boutique. "Her creative talent and hand-crafted techniques bring a fresh take to the jewellery world." kabiri.co.uk

Confezioni Crosby

Browns Focus

This collection – the work of two Italian designers and a New York-based uniform manufacturer – refines and softens cotton canvas and twill with grosgrain ribbon and faux-fur to create a feminised everyday workwear wardrobe. "We discovered the label in New York and fell in love with the designers' feminine take on classic workwear uniforms," says Ruth Runberg, buying director at Browns. "The collection felt fresh and new."

brownsfashion.com

Una Burke

Wolf & Badger

It was Burke's conceptual leather armour, worn by Daphne Guinness and Lady Gaga, which initially caught the eye of Henry Graham, retail director of the independent boutique. "She creates interesting and unique leather pieces that make a bold statement. I have been following her since she graduated from the London College of Fashion and now that her collection is well-rounded and commercial we are pleased to be showcasing her work," said Graham.

46 Ledbury Road, W11 2AB, 0207 229 5698

Sophie Theallet

Matches

With a decade at the right hand of Azzedine Alaïa under her belt, Theallet's design credentials are of an enviable pedigree.

Crossing the pond to launch in the UK, Theallet's feminine pieces have an undeniably sophisticated French current running through them. matchesfashion.com

COTE

Harvey Nichols

The fruit of a partnership between Italian designers Tomaso Anfossi and Francesco Ferrari, COTE (meaning shelter and protection) celebrates the sensuality of the female form. Shereen Basma, Harvey Nichols' womenswear buyer says: "Tomaso and Francesco created something new and hard to find. Every piece has a different strength, be it a delicate feather collar, a voluminous balloon print dress or a three-tiered leather skirt, each of them remarkably unique yet equally desirable." harveynichols.com

Callula Lilibelle

Net a porter

Nostalgia and retro inspiration, courtesy of silver screen sirens Marilyn Monroe and Betty Page, are inherent to this collection. Updated vintage styling – polka dots, pleats and classic cuts – complete a collection that designer William Calvert and entrepreneur Melanie Fraser Hart intended as an ode to femininity. net-a-porter.com

Suggested Topics
Arts and Entertainment
Attenborough with the primates
tvWhy BBC producers didn't want to broadcast Sir David Attenborough's famed Rwandan encounter
News
Campbell: ‘Sometimes you have to be economical with the truth’
newsFormer spin doctor says MPs should study tactics of leading sports figures like José Mourinho
Sport
football
Life and Style
Agretti is often compared to its relative, samphire, though is closer in taste to spinach
food + drink
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
News
Kelly Osbourne will play a flight attendant in Sharknado 2
people
News
Down-to-earth: Winstone isn't one for considering his 'legacy'
people
News
The dress can be seen in different colours
i100
Sport
Wes Brown is sent-off
football
Voices
Lance Corporal Joshua Leakey VC
voicesBeware of imitations, but the words of the soldier awarded the Victoria Cross were the real thing, says DJ Taylor
Life and Style
Alexander McQueen's AW 2009/10 collection during Paris Fashion Week
fashionMeet the collaborators who helped create the late designer’s notorious spectacles
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Bookkeeper / Office Co-ordinator

    £9 per hour: Recruitment Genius: This role is based within a small family run ...

    Recruitment Genius: Designer - Print & Digital

    £28000 - £32000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This Design and marketing agenc...

    Recruitment Genius: Quantity Surveyor

    £46000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This property investment firm are lookin...

    Recruitment Genius: Telesales / Telemarketing Executive - OTE £30k / £35k plus

    £18000 - £35000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This company specialises provid...

    Day In a Page

    War with Isis: Fears that the looming battle for Mosul will unleash 'a million refugees'

    The battle for Mosul will unleash 'a million refugees'

    Aid agencies prepare for vast exodus following planned Iraqi offensive against the Isis-held city, reports Patrick Cockburn
    Yvette Cooper: We can't lose the election. There's too much on the line

    Yvette Cooper: We can't lose the election. There's too much on the line

    The shadow Home Secretary on fighting radical Islam, protecting children, and why anyone in Labour who's thinking beyond May must 'sort themselves out'
    A bad week for the Greens: Leader Natalie Bennett's 'car crash' radio interview is followed by Brighton council's failure to set a budget due to infighting

    It's not easy being Green

    After a bad week in which its leader had a public meltdown and its only city council couldn't agree on a budget vote, what next for the alternative party? It's over to Caroline Lucas to find out
    Gorillas nearly missed: BBC producers didn't want to broadcast Sir David Attenborough's famed Rwandan encounter

    Gorillas nearly missed

    BBC producers didn't want to broadcast Sir David Attenborough's famed Rwandan encounter
    Downton Abbey effect sees impoverished Italian nobles inspired to open their doors to paying guests for up to €650 a night

    The Downton Abbey effect

    Impoverished Italian nobles are opening their doors to paying guests, inspired by the TV drama
    China's wild panda numbers have increased by 17% since 2003, new census reveals

    China's wild panda numbers on the up

    New census reveals 17% since 2003
    Barbara Woodward: Britain's first female ambassador to China intends to forge strong links with the growing economic superpower

    Our woman in Beijing builds a new relationship

    Britain's first female ambassador to China intends to forge strong links with growing economic power
    Courage is rare. True humility is even rarer. But the only British soldier to be awarded the Victoria Cross in Afghanistan has both

    Courage is rare. True humility is even rarer

    Beware of imitations, but the words of the soldier awarded the Victoria Cross were the real thing, says DJ Taylor
    Alexander McQueen: The catwalk was a stage for the designer's astonishing and troubling vision

    Alexander McQueen's astonishing vision

    Ahead of a major retrospective, Alexander Fury talks to the collaborators who helped create the late designer's notorious spectacle
    New BBC series savours half a century of food in Britain, from Vesta curries to nouvelle cuisine

    Dinner through the decades

    A new BBC series challenged Brandon Robshaw and his family to eat their way from the 1950s to the 1990s
    Philippa Perry interview: The psychotherapist on McDonald's, fancy specs and meeting Grayson Perry on an evening course

    Philippa Perry interview

    The psychotherapist on McDonald's, fancy specs and meeting Grayson Perry on an evening course
    Bill Granger recipes: Our chef recreates the exoticism of the Indonesian stir-fry

    Bill Granger's Indonesian stir-fry recipes

    Our chef was inspired by the south-east Asian cuisine he encountered as a teenager
    Chelsea vs Tottenham: Harry Kane was at Wembley to see Spurs beat the Blues and win the Capital One Cup - now he's their great hope

    Harry Kane interview

    The striker was at Wembley to see Spurs beat the Blues and win the Capital One Cup - now he's their great hope
    The Last Word: For the good of the game: why on earth don’t we leave Fifa?

    Michael Calvin's Last Word

    For the good of the game: why on earth don’t we leave Fifa?
    HIV pill: Scientists hail discovery of 'game-changer' that cuts the risk of infection among gay men by 86%

    Scientists hail daily pill that protects against HIV infection

    Breakthrough in battle against global scourge – but will the NHS pay for it?