Welcome to the dark side: Yves Saint Laurent's understated new collection

Stefano Pilati's new collection for Yves Saint Laurent is an unapologetic celebration of understated luxury. Susannah Frankel enjoys a taste of the black stuff

'Yves Saint Laurent's fall/winter collection is a break from the past, in many shades of black," read the notes for the show, staged in Paris last March. "As Mr Saint Laurent himself used to say: 'There is not just one black, but many blacks.'" Of course, it doesn't take the most feted designer of the 20th century to tell anyone even remotely interested in fashion that. Consumers buy black because it is flattering and easy to put together. Designers work with it because it puts all the emphasis on proportion, texture and cut, and it is extremely versatile. There are many kinds of black, indeed.

The little black dress pictured here is certainly the finest of its kind this season. It is as pretty as the proverbial picture, yet statuesque. This is very much in line with what its designer is thinking right now, and it represents something of a departure from the classically French, often unashamedly bourgeois, signature that he has given the world.

"I thought I needed to go back to the essence of the clothes," says Stefano Pilati, creative director of the Yves Saint Laurent label and responsible for both womenswear and menswear. "I thought about what the clothes mean and what it means to be a designer today." And to Pilati, being a designer meant paying more attention than ever to the pattern of a garment. "I am interested in the cut, in the volumes and in an element of opulence. I thought I was expressing real luxe with this collection but also anti-opulence, as it is perceived in the conventional way."

This dress is an idiosyncratic take on Le Smoking, the tuxedo that Yves Saint Laurent gave to haute couture womenswear in the late Sixties. He introduced women to a style that was the preserve of men's evening attire in order to relieve them of the whimsical froth that constituted their feminine alternative. Pilati is designing for a very different generation; still, any frills and flounces here are more rigorously executed, and even austere, in a very slightly twisted way.

"I wanted it to be political," says Pilati, and in this, too, he is following in the footsteps of the house's founder, who opened his first ready-to-wear boutique in 1968, the year of the French student riots, and dedicated haute couture collections - then staid, well-mannered affairs - to street styles as diverse as biker jackets and turtleneck sweaters. "We are constantly at war somewhere. Everywhere, people are dying," says Pilati. "What am I going to do - sequins and crystal everywhere? That didn't feel right. And so, I tried to be as focused as I could be on the cut of the clothes and to evoke a feeling of simplicity. I think it looks very Rive Gauche. Very Yves Saint Laurent, in its way."

Although Saint Laurent was a great colourist, he knew that black had its place centre-stage in fashion. For all the extravagance of his designs, he was a great pragmatist, putting the needs of the women who wore his clothes before his own ego - an unusual strategy in the designer-fashion arena. Pilati employs a similar approach. It should come as no great surprise, then, when he says: "My vision is only my vision if people respond to it and I respond to them and their needs. That's why I used only grey, blue and black. It's because it's the reality. I mean, who wants to wear yellow in winter?"

Although vibrant colour is not entirely off the agenda this season - everyone from Prada to Lanvin explored it - the sobriety of Pilati's collection lends it a certain dignity; instead of pandering to high-impact instant gratification this has a quieter beauty. "You might wear a colourful blouse, but you really want to wear pale green and have to wash it every time you go out. It's a little insane and, perhaps, for the sake of the press who like colour in their magazines."

In fact, in a collection that also features roomy coats, masculine suits and shoes adapted from a smart yet sensible style, this dress is frivolous by comparison. "It's just about a nice attitude, a nice feeling," Pilati says. "Maybe women will appreciate that."

If it all sounds wonderfully simple, it's worth noting that this is a highly luxurious offering, one that demonstrates a return to fine workmanship and discreet elegance - with a price tag to match. It seems all the more, well, bold for it - and, not insignificantly, more difficult to copy.

"Once you have a beautiful garment, with a beautiful cut, in a beautiful fabric, you don't need to do anything else. You don't need to make it bling. That's the direction I'm interested in moving Yves Saint Laurent in."

Given that Italian-born Pilati has become one of international fashion's main players, anyone even remotely interested in the way forward would do well to sit up and take note. Putting his money where his mouth is for the Yves Saint Laurent spring/summer 2008 season, more sober tailoring is the order of the day, some of it in nothing more obviously flashy than grey marl. True, mirrored stars add a certain lightness to the collection, for which devotees will have to wait until early next year.

Otherwise, the most beautifully proportioned trouser suits the catwalk has seen for some time, as well as more feminine, but still restrained, silk dresses that are anything but throwaway, are a continuation of a rigorously disciplined and lovely story.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
A boy holds a chick during the Russian National Agricultural Exhibition Golden Autumn 2014 in Moscow on October 9, 2014.
Life and Style
love + sex
Ashley Young celebrates the winner for Manchester United against Newcastle
footballNewcastle v United 1 player ratings
Arts and Entertainment
Victoria Wood, Kayvan Novak, Alexa Chung, Chris Moyles
tvReview: No soggy bottoms, but plenty of other baking disasters on The Great Comic Relief Bake Off
Ashley Young celebrates the winner for Manchester United against Newcastle
footballNewcastle 0 Man United 1: Last minute strike seals precious victory
Life and Style
Tikka Masala has been overtaken by Jalfrezi as the nation's most popular curry
food + drink
Arts and Entertainment
Seth Rogan is one of America’s most famous pot smokers
filmAmy Pascal resigned after her personal emails were leaked following a cyber-attack sparked by the actor's film The Interview
Benjamin Netanyahu and his cartoon bomb – the Israeli PM shows his ‘evidence’
Arts and Entertainment
80s trailblazer: comedian Tracey Ullman
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: UI / UX Designer

    £25000 - £35000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This firm are focussed on assis...

    Recruitment Genius: General Processor

    £7 per hour: Recruitment Genius: A vacancy has arisen for a General Processor ...

    Recruitment Genius: Outbound Sales Executive - B2B

    £18000 - £22000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A great opportunity has arisen ...

    Recruitment Genius: Online Sales and Customer Services Associate

    £14000 - £16000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Full time and Part time positio...

    Day In a Page

    War with Isis: Iraq's government fights to win back Tikrit from militants - but then what?

    Baghdad fights to win back Tikrit from Isis – but then what?

    Patrick Cockburn reports from Kirkuk on a conflict which sectarianism has made intractable
    Living with Alzheimer's: What is it really like to be diagnosed with early-onset dementia?

    What is it like to live with Alzheimer's?

    Depicting early-onset Alzheimer's, the film 'Still Alice' had a profound effect on Joy Watson, who lives with the illness. She tells Kate Hilpern how she's coped with the diagnosis
    The Internet of Things: Meet the British salesman who gave real-world items a virtual life

    Setting in motion the Internet of Things

    British salesman Kevin Ashton gave real-world items a virtual life
    Election 2015: Latest polling reveals Tories and Labour on course to win the same number of seats - with the SNP holding the balance of power

    Election 2015: A dead heat between Mr Bean and Dick Dastardly!

    Lord Ashcroft reveals latest polling – and which character voters associate with each leader
    Audiences queue up for 'true stories told live' as cult competition The Moth goes global

    Cult competition The Moth goes global

    The non-profit 'slam storytelling' competition was founded in 1997 by the novelist George Dawes Green and has seen Malcolm Gladwell, Salman Rushdie and Molly Ringwald all take their turn at the mic
    Pakistani women come out fighting: A hard-hitting play focuses on female Muslim boxers

    Pakistani women come out fighting

    Hard-hitting new play 'No Guts, No Heart, No Glory' focuses on female Muslim boxers
    Leonora Carrington transcended her stolid background to become an avant garde star

    Surreal deal: Leonora Carrington

    The artist transcended her stolid background to become an avant garde star
    LGBT History Month: Pupils discuss topics from Sappho to same-sex marriage

    Education: LGBT History Month

    Pupils have been discussing topics from Sappho to same-sex marriage
    11 best gel eyeliners

    Go bold this season: 11 best gel eyeliners

    Use an ink pot eyeliner to go bold on the eyes with this season's feline flicked winged liner
    Cricket World Cup 2015: Tournament runs riot to make the event more hit than miss...

    Cricket World Cup runs riot to make the event more hit than miss...

    The tournament has reached its halfway mark and scores of 300 and amazing catches abound. One thing never changes, though – everyone loves beating England
    Katarina Johnson-Thompson: Heptathlete ready to jump at first major title

    Katarina Johnson-Thompson: Ready to jump at first major title

    After her 2014 was ruined by injury, 21-year-old Briton is leading pentathlete going into this week’s European Indoors. Now she intends to turn form into gold
    Syrian conflict is the world's first 'climate change war', say scientists, but it won't be the last one

    Climate change key in Syrian conflict

    And it will trigger more war in future
    How I outwitted the Gestapo

    How I outwitted the Gestapo

    My life as a Jew in wartime Berlin
    The nation's favourite animal revealed

    The nation's favourite animal revealed

    Women like cuddly creatures whilst men like creepy-crawlies
    Is this the way to get young people to vote?

    Getting young people to vote

    From #VOTESELFISH to Bite the Ballot