Fendi and Prada: chinchilla, mink and futuristic flying caps

Faux-savage women prowled down the catwalks at Milan's Fashion Week on Thursday, enveloped in luxurious chinchilla and mink stoles, British-inspired woollen wrap dresses and futuristic flying caps.

MaxMara designer Laura Lusuardi's drew on the classic British country look for her show, reinterpreting kilts and urbanising Irish knitwear with long-haired alpaca and camel tartan bustiers and skirts.

The collection was aimed at "the active, younger and more animated woman," Lusuardi said backstage: "She is always elegant though, and ageless in her way."

But while she described the collection's tones - light greys, browns, Sixties' yellows, antique silvers and golds - as "colours of the city," Lusuardi's models had an almost wild, earthy vibe about them.

Figure-hugging knitted jumper-dresses were topped with oversized fur neckwarmers, and leather skirts were paired with fur bodices or a long, dark brown, oversized coat that masked the face, enveloping its wearer up to the eyes.

In Fendi's show, Karl Lagerfield and Silvia Venturini Fendi dazzled with a collection inspired by the "perverse" woman, with models wearing high-heeled brogues and swinging mustard, blue and red boxed bags, their hair in chignons.

"She's a composed woman with moments of madness and frivolity. A woman who dares," Fendi told AFP backstage before the show.

High necklines with sober skirts to the knee were broken up by dashes of pink, orange, green and azure, in block colours or glimpsed through pleats, for "a woman who has an idea of colour that's all her own."

The designers added a "faux-savage" tinge to the collection with asymmetrical jackets in netting and shetland, and cloaks and luxurious stoles in collages of sable, fox, chinchilla and mink.

In an attempt to "move away from the concept of the 'it' bag," Fendi and Lagerfield presented a wider collection for the autumn-winter show, featuring highly structured bags in leather, or in varnished blues and oranges.

Wide coats in dark blues and greys tailored in at the thigh were set off by coloured tights and brogues feminised with a lace-like design etched by laser.

The star detail was a clutch decorated with semi-precious stones, one of Fendi's favourites. "It's a jewel, almost too pretty to wear," she sighed.

Ditching the daring woman for the urban ballerina, the D&G show was an explosion of fluorescent oranges, pinks and greens with models sporting cotton and silk T-shirts over tutu-style brightly-coloured feather skirts.

Huge multi-coloured letters featured on most of the outfits, from silk and chiffron one-pieces to woollen tube dresses worn with masculine, oversized jackets and high-heeled trainers.

At Prada, the last main show of the day, guests perched on polystyrene cubes alongside a brilliant white runway spanning two floors, in theme with Miuccia Prada's crew of futuristic airwomen and sea-creature creations.

Pillar-box red, black and cream coats with large silver buttons were topped off with black, silver or turquoise flying helmet-style caps in fur, velvet and snakeskin.

Dresses were medium-long, hemmed just above the knee, with wide and soft checkered patterns on the front in dark green, black, white and burgundy, with a block of strong contrasting colour on the reverse.

A couple of silk, long-sleeved robes suggestive of pyjamas in pale blue and pink heralded in a collection of wide-lapelled dresses in delicate oranges and yellows, adorned with large, shimmering scales that rustled down the catwalk.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookPart of The Independent’s new eBook series The Great Composers
Arts and Entertainment
Books should be for everyone, says Els, 8. Publisher Scholastic now agrees
booksAn eight-year-old saw a pirate book was ‘for boys’ and took on the publishers
Life and Style
Mary Beard received abuse after speaking positively on 'Question Time' about immigrant workers: 'When people say ridiculous, untrue and hurtful things, then I think you should call them out'
tech
Life and Style
Most mail-order brides are thought to come from Thailand, the Philippines and Romania
life
News
i100
Life and Style
tech
Voices
Margaret Thatcher, with her director of publicity Sir Gordon Reece, who helped her and the Tory Party to victory in 1979
voicesThe subject is being celebrated by the V&A museum, triggering some happy memories for former PR man DJ Taylor
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Installation and Service / Security Engineer

    £22000 - £40000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This company is part of a Group...

    Recruitment Genius: Service Charge Accounts Assistant

    £16000 - £18000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Are you a a young, dynamic pers...

    Cancer Research UK: Corporate Partnerships Volunteer Events Coordinator – London

    Voluntary: Cancer Research UK: We’re looking for someone to support our award ...

    Ashdown Group: Head of IT - Hertfordshire - £90,000

    £70000 - £90000 per annum + bonus + car allowance + benefits: Ashdown Group: H...

    Day In a Page

    General Election 2015: Chuka Umunna on the benefits of immigration, humility – and his leader Ed Miliband

    Chuka Umunna: A virus of racism runs through Ukip

    The shadow business secretary on the benefits of immigration, humility – and his leader Ed Miliband
    Yemen crisis: This exotic war will soon become Europe's problem

    Yemen's exotic war will soon affect Europe

    Terrorism and boatloads of desperate migrants will be the outcome of the Saudi air campaign, says Patrick Cockburn
    Marginal Streets project aims to document voters in the run-up to the General Election

    Marginal Streets project documents voters

    Independent photographers Joseph Fox and Orlando Gili are uploading two portraits of constituents to their website for each day of the campaign
    Game of Thrones: Visit the real-life kingdom of Westeros to see where violent history ends and telly tourism begins

    The real-life kingdom of Westeros

    Is there something a little uncomfortable about Game of Thrones shooting in Northern Ireland?
    How to survive a social-media mauling, by the tough women of Twitter

    How to survive a Twitter mauling

    Mary Beard, Caroline Criado-Perez, Louise Mensch, Bunny La Roche and Courtney Barrasford reveal how to trounce the trolls
    Gallipoli centenary: At dawn, the young remember the young who perished in one of the First World War's bloodiest battles

    At dawn, the young remember the young

    A century ago, soldiers of the Empire – many no more than boys – spilt on to Gallipoli’s beaches. On this 100th Anzac Day, there are personal, poetic tributes to their sacrifice
    Dissent is slowly building against the billions spent on presidential campaigns – even among politicians themselves

    Follow the money as never before

    Dissent is slowly building against the billions spent on presidential campaigns – even among politicians themselves, reports Rupert Cornwell
    Samuel West interview: The actor and director on austerity, unionisation, and not mentioning his famous parents

    Samuel West interview

    The actor and director on austerity, unionisation, and not mentioning his famous parents
    General Election 2015: Imagine if the leading political parties were fashion labels

    Imagine if the leading political parties were fashion labels

    Fashion editor, Alexander Fury, on what the leaders' appearances tell us about them
    Phumzile Mlambo-Ngcuka: Home can be the unsafest place for women

    Phumzile Mlambo-Ngcuka: Home can be the unsafest place for women

    The architect of the HeForShe movement and head of UN Women on the world's failure to combat domestic violence
    Public relations as 'art'? Surely not

    Confessions of a former PR man

    The 'art' of public relations is being celebrated by the V&A museum, triggering some happy memories for DJ Taylor
    Bill Granger recipes: Our chef succumbs to his sugar cravings with super-luxurious sweet treats

    Bill Granger's luxurious sweet treats

    Our chef loves to stop for 30 minutes to catch up on the day's gossip, while nibbling on something sweet
    London Marathon 2015: Paula Radcliffe and the mother of all goodbyes

    The mother of all goodbyes

    Paula Radcliffe's farewell to the London Marathon will be a family affair
    Everton vs Manchester United: Steven Naismith demands 'better' if Toffees are to upset the odds against United

    Steven Naismith: 'We know we must do better'

    The Everton forward explains the reasons behind club's decline this season
    Arsenal vs Chelsea: Praise to Arsene Wenger for having the courage of his convictions

    Michael Calvin's Last Word

    Praise to Wenger for having the courage of his convictions