Ready To Wear: You can tell a lot about a person by their jacket

 

You can tell a lot about a designer by the way they approach the design of a classic black jacket. And you can tell a lot about a person by the classic black jacket they choose to wear.

And so I find myself, dressing for a reasonably (and unusually) formal occasion, one that requires smartness, but not outright fashion ferocity, doing an early morning twirl for my other half who, while visibly pained, will hopefully help me find the right balance between the two.

"You look too thin," he says, when I try on a Balenciaga jacket, an outrageous slur and, on any other occasion, a very good reason to wear the garment in question if only out of spite. It's all in the signature high-cut arm holes and ultra skinny sleeves, incidentally, and no more true a reflection of the body inside it than the oversized jacket of a Zoot suit, say, might be.

Next: a Chanel, bouclé wool jacket complete with metal chain in the hem to ensure it hangs just so. "You look normal," says the in-house fashion jury, which is meant as a positive but it doesn't feel that way to me. Neither, come to think of it, would Chanel be overly impressed. Since its inception, this design was always intended as relaxed, but "maybe lose the word normal," I tell him. Effortlessly chic, perhaps?

Moving on and a much-worn and loved Yohji Yamamoto jacket gets short shrift: it has a deliberately shrunken, poor-boy feel and deliberately shrunken, poor-boy is not the order of this particular day.

Strong-shouldered McQueen? "That's a brilliant jacket, but it's the sartorial equivalent of telling someone to f*** off," apparently.

And so I reach, perhaps inevitably, for a lightweight wool Jil Sander jacket [pictured] which is, if I have to say so myself, the height of elegance – nice but in no way boring. As always, the devil is in the detail. The waist is higher than is usual, forming a discretely feminine line; the sleeves are generous, so the overall effect is easy, not uptight; the shoulders are slender, as opposed to power-crazed, but quietly assertive nonetheless. As for the fabric, suffice it to say that I might even be able to curl up for a cheeky afternoon nap in the fashion cupboard in it from where it will emerge miraculously unscathed.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Executive - OTE £45,000

    £18000 - £45000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Sales Executive is required t...

    Recruitment Genius: Test Development Engineer

    £35000 - £40000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Are you inspired to bring new a...

    Recruitment Genius: Trainee Motor Engineer

    £14000 - £18000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an exciting opportunity...

    Recruitment Genius: Technical Administrator

    £15000 - £18000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This company are a world leadin...

    Day In a Page

    On your feet! Spending at least two hours a day standing reduces the risk of heart attacks, cancer and diabetes, according to new research

    On your feet!

    Spending half the day standing 'reduces risk of heart attacks and cancer'
    Liverpool close in on Milner signing

    Liverpool close in on Milner signing

    Reds baulk at Christian Benteke £32.5m release clause
    With scores of surgeries closing, what hope is there for the David Cameron's promise of 5,000 more GPs and a 24/7 NHS?

    The big NHS question

    Why are there so few new GPs when so many want to study medicine?
    Big knickers are back: Thongs ain't what they used to be

    Thongs ain't what they used to be

    Big knickers are back
    Thurston Moore interview

    Thurston Moore interview

    On living in London, Sonic Youth and musical memoirs
    In full bloom

    In full bloom

    Floral print womenswear
    From leading man to Elephant Man, Bradley Cooper is terrific

    From leading man to Elephant Man

    Bradley Cooper is terrific
    In this the person to restore our trust in the banks?

    In this the person to restore our trust in the banks?

    Dame Colette Bowe - interview
    When do the creative juices dry up?

    When do the creative juices dry up?

    David Lodge thinks he knows
    The 'Cher moment' happening across fashion just now

    Fashion's Cher moment

    Ageing beauty will always be more classy than all that booty
    Thousands of teenage girls enduring debilitating illnesses after routine school cancer vaccination

    Health fears over school cancer jab

    Shock new Freedom of Information figures show how thousands of girls have suffered serious symptoms after routine HPV injection
    Fifa President Sepp Blatter warns his opponents: 'I forgive everyone, but I don't forget'

    'I forgive everyone, but I don't forget'

    Fifa president Sepp Blatter issues defiant warning to opponents
    Extreme summer temperatures will soon cause deaths of up to 1,700 more Britons a year, says government report

    Weather warning

    Extreme summer temperatures will soon cause deaths of up to 1,700 more Britons a year, says government report
    LSD: Speaking to volunteer users of the drug as trials get underway to see if it cures depression and addiction

    High hopes for LSD

    Meet the volunteer users helping to see if it cures depression and addiction
    German soldier who died fighting for UK in Battle of Waterloo should be removed from museum display and given dignified funeral, say historians

    Saving Private Brandt

    A Belgian museum's display of the skeleton of a soldier killed at Waterloo prompts calls for him to be given a dignified funeral