Galliano celebrates Bacall and Bogart in tribute to film noir

(AFP) -

Wailing sirens, the sound of a car crash and billows of smoke: ever the showman John Galliano took Dior to the movies on Friday, to the heyday of the classic 1940s film noir.

First out onto the catwalk was a young Lauren Bacall look-alike with a flowing blonde mane in a trenchcoat worthy of Humphrey Bogart, glammed up in gunmetal grey lame, swinging a bulky black python attache case.

Trenchcoats and leather jackets with sharp lapels and belts knotted at the waist were the default outerwear in Galliano's ready-to-wear offerings for spring-summer 2010, and the attache case the new must-have accessory.

He slipped a liquorice black trenchcoat over second-skin metallic jeans, but mostly he softened the butch upper silhouette with ultra-feminine knitted lurex skirts or flirty petticoats. His clear favourite were slinky satin boxer shorts with a deep lace trim, although just how feasible it would be to wear them on a city street is a moot point.

The lingerie look took over for evening, with trompe l'oeil combinations of bras and panties wittily incorporated into cocktail frocks.

Corsets, in nude shades like ivory, with a delicate cobweb tracery of lace, topped a swishy sea green sheath here, or a pair of flesh-coloured satin boxer shorts there.

Evening gowns were fragile constructs in clouds of sheer finely pleated tulle, in orange, violet and ice blue, with "illusion" slips underneath giving tantalising glimpses of stocking tops and underwear.

Galliano appeared at the end of the runway out of a puff of smoke, clad like Bogey with his hallmark Borsalino hat, to thunderous applause from celebrity guests including Bruce Willis and his companion and the r'n'b singer Rihanna.

Dai Fujiwara's collection for Issey Miyake was a riot of colour, with pick-and-mix global references from Celtic to Native American to his own native Japan.

For his final sequence all the models stayed on the catwalk and milled around like a shoal of exotic tropical fish in their bright printed sarouels, sarongs and jumpsuits, splashed with apple green, electric blue, brick red and magenta.

Celtic-influenced jackets in jacquard were a patchwork of overlapping arches in subtle gradations of white and grey. Horizontal and vertical pleats gave a chequer board look to a cream summer coat. Others were constructed from woven strips of multi-coloured tape, here and there hanging loose from the hem.

Straw-coloured mesh knit floor-length cardigans and vests added a hippie de luxe touch.

Gaspard Yurkievich opened his show with tailored dresses with sculptured round shoulders, emphatic white lines down the sleeves, large zipped pockets and a big white zip down the back.

But he moved away from his austere, structured look, with a watercolour poppy print, turned into dressy blouses and fluid skirts, sometimes reduced to mere wisps of fabric, or picked out in sequins for cocktail frocks.

News
peopleHowards' Way actress, and former mistress of Jeffrey Archer, was 60
Sport
Romelu Lukaku puts pen to paper
sport
News
Robyn Lawley
people
Arts and Entertainment
Unhappy days: Resistance spy turned Nobel prize winner Samuel Beckett
books
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebookA wonderful selection of salads, starters and mains featuring venison, grouse and other game
News
people
Life and Style
Troy Baker and Ashley Johnson voice the show’s heroes
gamingOnce stilted and melodramatic, Hollywood is giving acting in video games a makeover
News
i100
Life and Style
Phones will be able to monitor your health, from blood pressure to heart rate, and even book a doctor’s appointment for you
techCould our smartphones soon be diagnosing diseases via Health Kit and Google Fit?
Travel
Ryan taming: the Celtic Tiger carrier has been trying to improve its image
travelRyanair has turned on the 'charm offensive' but can we learn to love the cut-price carrier again?
News
people
Extras
indybest
Sport
Usain Bolt confirms he will run in both the heats and the finals of the men's relay at the Commonwealth Games
commonwealth games
Life and Style
Slim pickings: Spanx premium denim collection
fashionBillionaire founder of Spanx launches range of jeans that offers 'thigh-trimming construction'
News
Sabina Altynbekova has said she wants to be famous for playing volleyball, not her looks
people
News
i100
Life and Style
tech'World's first man-made leaves' could use photosynthesis to help astronauts breathe
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    SAP Project Manager

    competitive: Progressive Recruitment: SAP PROJECT MANAGER - 3 MONTHS - BERKSHI...

    SAP Project Manager

    competitive: Progressive Recruitment: SAP PROJECT MANAGER - 3 MONTHS - BERKSHI...

    Senior Investment Accounting Change Manager

    £600 - £700 per day + competitive: Orgtel: Senior Investment Accounting Change...

    Microsoft Dynamics AX Functional Consultant

    £65000 - £75000 per annum + benefits: Progressive Recruitment: A rare opportun...

    Day In a Page

    Save the tiger: The day America’s love of backyard tigers led to a horrific bloodbath

    The day America’s love of backyard tigers led to a horrific bloodbath

    With only six per cent of the US population of these amazing big cats held in zoos, the Zanesville incident in 2011 was inevitable
    Samuel Beckett's biographer reveals secrets of the writer's time as a French Resistance spy

    How Samuel Beckett became a French Resistance spy

    As this year's Samuel Beckett festival opens in Enniskillen, James Knowlson, recalls how the Irish writer risked his life for liberty and narrowly escaped capture by the Gestapo
    Star Wars Episode VII is being shot on film - and now Kodak is launching a last-ditch bid to keep celluloid alive

    Kodak's last-ditch bid to keep celluloid alive

    Director J J Abrams and a few digital refuseniks shoot movies on film. Simon Usborne wonders what the fuss is about
    Once stilted and melodramatic, Hollywood is giving acting in video games a makeover

    Acting in video games gets a makeover

    David Crookes meets two of the genre's most popular voices
    Could our smartphones soon be diagnosing diseases via Health Kit and Google Fit?

    Could smartphones soon be diagnosing diseases?

    Health Kit and Google Fit have been described as "the beginning of a health revolution"
    Ryanair has turned on the 'charm offensive' but can we learn to love the cut-price carrier again?

    Can we learn to love Ryanair again?

    Four recent travellers give their verdicts on the carrier's improved customer service
    Billionaire founder of Spanx launches range of jeans that offers

    Spanx launches range of jeans

    The jeans come in two styles, multiple cuts and three washes and will go on sale in the UK in October
    10 best over-ear headphones

    Aural pleasure: 10 best over-ear headphones

    Listen to your favourite tracks with this selection, offering everything from lambskin earmuffs to stainless steel
    Commonwealth Games 2014: David Millar ready to serve up gold for his beloved Scotland in the end

    Commonwealth Games

    David Millar ready to serve up gold for his beloved Scotland in the end
    UCI Mountain Bike World Cup 2014: Downhill all the way to the top for the Atherton siblings

    UCI Mountain Bike World Cup

    Downhill all the way to the top for the Atherton siblings
    Save the tiger: The animals bred for bones on China’s tiger farms

    The animals bred for bones on China’s tiger farms

    The big cats kept in captivity to perform for paying audiences and then, when dead, their bodies used to fortify wine
    A former custard factory, a Midlands bog and a Leeds cemetery all included in top 50 hidden spots in the UK

    A former custard factory, a Midlands bog and a Leeds cemetery

    Introducing the top 50 hidden spots in Britain
    Ebola epidemic: Plagued by fear

    Ebola epidemic: Plagued by fear

    How a disease that has claimed fewer than 2,000 victims in its history has earned a place in the darkest corner of the public's imagination
    Chris Pratt: From 'Parks and Recreation' to 'Guardians of the Galaxy'

    From 'Parks and Recreation' to 'Guardians of the Galaxy'

    He was homeless in Hawaii when he got his big break. Now the comic actor Chris Pratt is Hollywood's new favourite action star
    How live cinema screenings can boost arts audiences

    How live cinema screenings can boost arts audiences

    Broadcasting plays and exhibitions to cinemas is a sure-fire box office smash