Gucci in Milan: Sex still sells in the capital of commerce

view gallery VIEW GALLERY


Few items of clothing have the stature or symbolism to warrant a 60th anniversary celebration. But that’s the star treatment that Gucci’s horsebit loafer received, with the launch of a dedicated exhibition at the brand’s museum in Florence.

That horsebit, along with the interlocking Gs and a dual stripe of red and green, form a direct link back to founder Guccio Gucci and the days when the label was solely a Florentine purveyor of leather goods.

Gucci, and the other celebrated Italian houses – Prada, Fendi, Bottega Veneta, Etro, Missoni, Pucci – that will show their new collections in Milan over the next seven days are built on strong foundations of technical expertise. Leather goods, textiles, knitwear and scarf prints, all prove that clothing can be developed as an extension of the brand and be no less creative for that. This is a lesson that has begun to be learnt in London too, judging by the way the commercial head was seen to be leading the creative heart of the capital’s bright young things over the last few days.

Frida Giannini, Gucci creative director, continued a theme of overt sexuality that has been picking up pace during this round of the international collections. If sex does indeed sell, autumn/winter is certainly going to be a profitable season for the fashion industry.

Although at times it has been difficult to imagine the woman who would be able to brazen out the level of kink seen so far this season, Giannini has had no such trouble. “The Gucci woman seduces with her dangerous femininity,” she said, describing a  collection that shunned any more  delicate interpretations of that  particular F word.

The opening segment featured egg-shaped shouldered jackets worn with pencil skirts – slit up the back as far as propriety would allow, and a little further for good measure – in wool, leather and pony skin. Worn with leather gloves, seamed fishnets and patent laced booties and knee high boots, these were a new interpretation of the classic two-piece skirt suit.

Where there was structure, it was counter-balanced by body-consciousness, with nipped-in waists, skin-tight leather and diaphanous silk separates. When talking about a collection as noir-ish as this, a strong use of black goes without saying, but it was saturated with deep colours too – purple, rust, moss green and cerulean blue.

“She is steely yet sexy – defining her discipline with femme fatale vices,” said Giannini of her woman. “She wears sculpted dresses with pure graphics, all the while alluding to devious touches.” Although there was less a sense of allusion in the closing sequence – where evening wear was shown off. These were pieces designed for the red carpet: elegant satin skirts counter-balanced with embroidered tops, with sequins, studding and feathers piled on to netting. The final blue dress seemed to depict a phoenix rising from the ashes, but it is the peacocks of the red carpet that will best strut their stuff in these designs.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Executive - OTE £35,000

    £18000 - £23000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A Sales Executive is required t...

    SThree: Trainee Recruitment Consultant

    £20000 - £25000 per annum + competitive: SThree: £20000 - £25000 per annum + c...

    Recruitment Genius: Project Coordinator

    £25000 - £30000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This company provides a number ...

    Recruitment Genius: Graduate Sales Consultant - OTE £45,000

    £15000 - £45000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Do you want to work for an exci...

    Day In a Page

    Solved after 200 years: the mysterious deaths of 3,000 soldiers from Napoleon's army

    Solved after 200 years

    The mysterious deaths of 3,000 soldiers from Napoleon's army
    Every regional power has betrayed the Kurds so Turkish bombing is no surprise

    Robert Fisk on the Turkey conflict

    Every regional power has betrayed the Kurds so Turkish bombing is no surprise
    Investigation into wreck of unidentified submarine found off the coast of Sweden

    Sunken sub

    Investigation underway into wreck of an unidentified submarine found off the coast of Sweden
    Instagram and Facebook have 'totally changed' the way people buy clothes

    Age of the selfie

    Instagram and Facebook have 'totally changed' the way people buy clothes
    Not so square: How BBC's Bloomsbury saga is sexing up the period drama

    Not so square

    How Virginia Woolf saga is sexing up the BBC period drama
    Rio Olympics 2016: The seven teenagers still carrying a torch for our Games hopes

    Still carrying the torch

    The seven teenagers given our Olympic hopes
    The West likes to think that 'civilisation' will defeat Isis, but history suggests otherwise

    The West likes to think that 'civilisation' will defeat Isis...

    ...but history suggests otherwise
    The bald truth: How one author's thinning hair made him a Wayne Rooney sympathiser

    The bald truth

    How thinning hair made me a Wayne Rooney sympathiser
    Froome wins second Tour de France after triumphant ride into Paris with Team Sky

    Tour de France 2015

    Froome rides into Paris to win historic second Tour
    Fifteen years ago, Concorde crashed, and a dream died. Today, the desire to travel faster than the speed of sound is growing once again

    A new beginning for supersonic flight?

    Concorde's successors are in the works 15 years on from the Paris crash
    I would never quit Labour, says Liz Kendall

    I would never quit party, says Liz Kendall

    Latest on the Labour leadership contest
    Froome seals second Tour de France victory

    Never mind Pinot, it’s bubbly for Froome

    Second Tour de France victory all but sealed
    Oh really? How the 'lowest form of wit' makes people brighter and more creative

    The uses of sarcasm

    'Lowest form of wit' actually makes people brighter and more creative
    A magazine editor with no vanity, and lots of flair

    No vanity, but lots of flair

    A tribute to the magazine editor Ingrid Sischy
    Foraging: How the British rediscovered their taste for chasing after wild food

    In praise of foraging

    How the British rediscovered their taste for wild food