In Milan, feminine wiles cede to Prada's urban chic

Frankie Morello proposed casual sensuality while Fendi went for a languid feel and Dolce & Gabbana were all flouncy femininity as Milan Fashion Week got into full swing Thursday.

But Prada was having none of it, dictating stripes and solids in simple shapes cut from Japanese cotton for spring/summer 2011 in a collection full of eye-catching colour clashes.

Models for the quirky label came out on stripey platform tennis shoes, carrying faux furs - striped or white or both - with their hair slicked-down and wound into twin chiffons at the nape, some sporting striped sombreros slung behind them.

Those wearing coloured plastic glasses looked as if they were on their way to a maths exam.

The venue, a paragon of industrial architecture featuring poured concrete and steel for the catwalk, with the photographers crowded into essentially a three-sided cage, lent an aura of urban chic to the collection.

Fashion blogger Bryanboy, spotted wearing a Prada sweater mixing black and white with coloured stripes and perched on Japanese-type clogs, said he was among those who offered designer Muccia Prada a robust accolade when she came out after the show.

"It wasn't avant-garde at all," he told AFP. "It was very safe."

For Frankie Morello's show, an expanse of white sand replaced the catwalk and the models played with their unkempt hair and flirted with the photographers, swaying their hips like nobody's business.

One had an electric guitar slung over her cutaway swimsuit, two others showily smoked cigarettes.

At the other end a metal 1960s-era Airstream caravan served as the backdrop to a beach scene with three hunky guys drinking beer, working out and comparing surfboards while a young woman with her hair in curlers sized them up.

Designers Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti said the mise en scene fell somewhere "between mirage and reality".

Making good on a promise to allow lingerie to "claim its space," they let the waist of a pair of broad-gauge fishnets rise well over the edge of size zero jean shorts, or a denim bra to be worn on the outside, or simply sewn on upside down as a design feature.

Denim met chiffon in a jean miniskirt with a long cream train, or in breast-revealing tops over microshorts.

To send home the carefree message, the models came out in oversized T-shirts at the end, playfully emptying bottles of water on the designers' heads.

Fendi achieved a more restrained, languid air, with calf-length flared skirt dresses and ruffled organza frocks, though suggestive jungle calls and drums played in the background.

Copious sleeves - raglan, flared or structured "lantern" sleeves - contributed to the look of cool sophistication.

A prim blue suit with short sleeves, slightly puffed, was made less demure by a thigh-revealing slit up the front.

Flowers were everywhere as Dolce & Gabbana rolled out their D&G second line for younger customers from behind a flower-bedecked stage and down a catwalk lined with flowerbeds. Even the invitations came with packets of zinnia seeds attached.

Flouncy, feminine creations in a multitude of floral patterns floated to the floor while jaunty red-chequered kerchiefs evoked summer picnics.

Trousers were cut wide and flared, stopping at mid-calf. A peasant top with oversized side pockets gave off a similar casual, somewhat retro vibe.

Meanwhile overalls worn without shirts or bras had a naughty air, as did a pair of red leather hot pants.

"Modern elegance" was the theme for Ermanno Scervino, boyish in the deconstructed men's shirts, while geometric shapes defined the woman of the future.

Lots of leg was on display under microskirts and short shorts, whether for daytime or evening.

Materials were of understated elegance - ultra-light leathers, Swiss cotton poplin and white organdy.

Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
SPONSORED FEATURES
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Recruitment Genius: Head Porter / Concierge

    £16000 - £28000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This award winning Property Man...

    Recruitment Genius: Credit Controller

    £16000 - £20000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Are you a a young, dynamic pers...

    SThree: Trainee Recruitment Consultant - Birmingham

    £18000 - £23000 per annum + Uncapped OTE: SThree: SThree Trainee Recruitment C...

    Recruitment Genius: Interactive / Mobile Developer

    £40000 - £45000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This digital production agency ...

    Day In a Page

    Giants Club: After wholesale butchery of Idi Amin's regime, Uganda’s giants flourish once again

    Uganda's giants are flourishing once again

    After the wholesale butchery of Idi Amin's regime, elephant populations are finally recovering
    The London: After 350 years, the riddle of Britain's exploding fleet is finally solved

    After 350 years, the riddle of Britain's exploding fleet is finally solved

    Archaeologists will recover a crucial item from the wreck of the London which could help shed more light on what happened in the vessel's final seconds
    Airbus has patented a jet that could fly from London to New York in one hour

    Airbus has patented a jet that could fly from London to New York in one hour

    The invention involves turbojets and ramjets - a type of jet engine - and a rocket motor
    10 best sun creams for kids

    10 best sun creams for kids

    Protect delicate and sensitive skin with products specially formulated for little ones
    Tate Sensorium: New exhibition at Tate Britain invites art lovers to taste, smell and hear art

    Tate Sensorium

    New exhibition at Tate Britain invites art lovers to taste, smell and hear art
    Ashes 2015: Nice guy Steven Finn is making up for lost time – and quickly

    Nice guy Finn is making up for lost time – and quickly

    He was man-of-the-match in the third Test following his recall to the England side
    Ashes 2015: Remember Ashton Agar? The No 11 that nearly toppled England

    Remember Ashton Agar?

    The No 11 that nearly toppled England
    Turkey-Kurdish conflict: Obama's deal with Ankara is a betrayal of Syrian Kurds and may not even weaken Isis

    US betrayal of old ally brings limited reward

    Since the accord, the Turks have only waged war on Kurds while no US bomber has used Incirlik airbase, says Patrick Cockburn
    VIPs gather for opening of second Suez Canal - but doubts linger over security

    'A gift from Egypt to the rest of the world'

    VIPs gather for opening of second Suez Canal - but is it really needed?
    Jeremy Corbyn dresses abysmally. That's a great thing because it's genuine

    Jeremy Corbyn dresses abysmally. That's a great thing because it's genuine

    Fashion editor, Alexander Fury, applauds a man who clearly has more important things on his mind
    The male menopause and intimations of mortality

    Aches, pains and an inkling of mortality

    So the male menopause is real, they say, but what would the Victorians, 'old' at 30, think of that, asks DJ Taylor
    Man Booker Prize 2015: Anna Smaill - How can I possibly be on the list with these writers I have idolised?

    'How can I possibly be on the list with these writers I have idolised?'

    Man Booker Prize nominee Anna Smaill on the rise of Kiwi lit
    Bettany Hughes interview: The historian on how Socrates would have solved Greece's problems

    Bettany Hughes interview

    The historian on how Socrates would have solved Greece's problems
    Art of the state: Pyongyang propaganda posters to be exhibited in China

    Art of the state

    Pyongyang propaganda posters to be exhibited in China
    Mildreds and Vanilla Black have given vegetarian food a makeover in new cookbooks

    Vegetarian food gets a makeover

    Long-time vegetarian Holly Williams tries to recreate some of the inventive recipes in Mildreds and Vanilla Black's new cookbooks