Jean Paul Gaultier appeals to the older woman in Paris show

Jean Paul Gaultier wooed women who, in his words, "don't want to look like their 20-year-old daughters" in a characteristically frisky fall-winter show Saturday during Paris fashion week.

Working with "slightly backward-looking cliches of elegance," plus a soundtrack harking back to the 1960s, Gaultier sought to "recast an image from memory with materials and effects from today".

French comedienne Valerie Lemercier joined the parade of models with towering beehive hairdos who descended the runway, threw down a scarf or a jacket in front of the photographers, then strolled back.

Thrown into the mix was the Australian male model Andrej Pejic, 19, a favourite of Gaultier, 57, for his long straight blonde hair and an androgynous style that made him almost indistinguishable from his female counterparts.

Earlier in the day, Haider Ackermann, the Antwerp-based designer whose name is popping up as a possible successor to the disgraced John Galliano at Christian Dior, presented one of the best-received shows of the season.

His sensual and pure collection at the Palais de Tokyo featured voluminous layered dresses in silk, satin and leather, sometimes with a shoulder bared, or a leg slit high, or a very low-cut neckline.

The result was a colourful, sexy yet freshly elegant silhouette from the Colombian-born adopted son of a French couple who spent much of his formative years living in Africa.

Paris fashion week - a misnomer for an event that runs nine days - opened on Tuesday amid scandal when John Galliano, chief designer at Christian Dior for 15 years, was fired amid a furore over alleged anti-Semitic remarks.

Galliano publicly apologised for his drunken conduct in a Parisian cafe, but denied being anti-Semitic, as he reportedly left for a rehab clinic in Arizona pending trial in France over his purported remarks.

Dior went ahead without Galliano on Friday and unveiled its fall-winter collection, sending out members of its atelier team in white lab coats for a standing ovation at the end of the show - the moment when the flamboyant London-bred designer would normally have taken a theatrical bow.

Galliano's eponymous own label, majority owned by Dior, had been scheduled to stage its show for Sunday, but that event has been downsized to a simpler presentation for buyers and journalists only.

In other shows on Saturday, the avant-garde Dutch design duo of Viktor and Rolf lowered a drawbridge and sent out a robotic army in sharply-sculpted outfits inspired by medieval knights.

With their faces made up to look sun-burned red, the models emerged from a kind of underground inferno to parade down the runway in Les Tuileries to a martial-techno beat.

The tone-setting opening look - a dark jacket with a big, whimsical collar - was followed by pleated skirts and dresses in white, black, leather and metallic shades, sometimes with stylised floral details at the shoulders.

Evening wear featured a severe tuxedo suit cinched with a wide belt.

Australian-born, Paris-based designer Martin Grant kept it characteristically sharp and sophisticated at his fall-winter show in the Ecole des Beaux Arts that opened to the beat of Bobby Womack's "Across 110th Street."

Seizing the limelight - and likely to be a customer favourite - was a glossy poppy-red trench coat, together with a fur-collared coat that was long enough almost to kiss the floor.

ebooks
ebookA delicious collection of 50 meaty main courses
Life and Style
ebookNow available in paperback
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    Ashdown Group: Project Manager - Birmingham - up to £40,000 - 12 month FTC

    £35000 - £40000 per annum: Ashdown Group: IT Project Manager - Birmingham - ...

    SThree: Recruitment Consultant - IT

    £25000 - £30000 per annum + Uncapped Commission: SThree: Sthree are looking fo...

    SThree: Trainee Recruitment Consultant - Dublin (based in London)

    £20000 - £25000 per annum + commission: SThree: Real Staffing's Pharmaceutical...

    SThree: Trainee Recruitment Consultant

    £18000 - £25000 per annum + Commission: SThree: Are you great at building rela...

    Day In a Page

    Fishing for votes with Nigel Farage: The Ukip leader shows how he can work an audience as he casts his line to the disaffected of Grimsby

    Fishing is on Nigel Farage's mind

    Ukip leader casts a line to the disaffected
    Who is bombing whom in the Middle East? It's amazing they don't all hit each other

    Who is bombing whom in the Middle East?

    Robert Fisk untangles the countries and factions
    China's influence on fashion: At the top of the game both creatively and commercially

    China's influence on fashion

    At the top of the game both creatively and commercially
    Lord O’Donnell: Former cabinet secretary on the election and life away from the levers of power

    The man known as GOD has a reputation for getting the job done

    Lord O'Donnell's three principles of rule
    Rainbow shades: It's all bright on the night

    Rainbow shades

    It's all bright on the night
    'It was first time I had ever tasted chocolate. I kept a piece, and when Amsterdam was liberated, I gave it to the first Allied soldier I saw'

    Bread from heaven

    Dutch survivors thank RAF for World War II drop that saved millions
    Britain will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power - Labour

    How 'the Axe' helped Labour

    UK will be 'run for the wealthy and powerful' if Tories retain power
    Rare and exclusive video shows the horrific price paid by activists for challenging the rule of jihadist extremists in Syria

    The price to be paid for challenging the rule of extremists

    A revolution now 'consuming its own children'
    Welcome to the world of Megagames

    Welcome to the world of Megagames

    300 players take part in Watch the Skies! board game in London
    'Nymphomaniac' actress reveals what it was really like to star in one of the most explicit films ever

    Charlotte Gainsbourg on 'Nymphomaniac'

    Starring in one of the most explicit films ever
    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi: The Emirates' out-of-sight migrant workers helping to build the dream projects of its rulers

    Robert Fisk in Abu Dhabi

    The Emirates' out-of-sight migrant workers helping to build the dream projects of its rulers
    Vince Cable interview: Charging fees for employment tribunals was 'a very bad move'

    Vince Cable exclusive interview

    Charging fees for employment tribunals was 'a very bad move'
    Iwan Rheon interview: Game of Thrones star returns to his Welsh roots to record debut album

    Iwan Rheon is returning to his Welsh roots

    Rheon is best known for his role as the Bastard of Bolton. It's gruelling playing a sadistic torturer, he tells Craig McLean, but it hasn't stopped him recording an album of Welsh psychedelia
    Morne Hardenberg interview: Cameraman for BBC's upcoming show Shark on filming the ocean's most dangerous predator

    It's time for my close-up

    Meet the man who films great whites for a living
    Increasing numbers of homeless people in America keep their mobile phones on the streets

    Homeless people keep mobile phones

    A homeless person with a smartphone is a common sight in the US. And that's creating a network where the 'hobo' community can share information - and fight stigma - like never before