(Relaxnews) -

One of the biggest mysteries in current fashion has been resolved: designer Martin Margiela has been replaced by a new creative team at the house he made famous.

Maison Martin Margiela owner Renzo Rosso, who also founded the Diesel brand, told fashion media during Paris Fashion Week: "Martin has not been there for a long time," confirming rumors that had been circulating since last fashion week season due to the lack of 'Margiela magic' at the label's show.

But adding a bit of the mystery the brand (and especially the designer, who almost never gives interviews nor poses for pictures) is known for, Rosso also said: "He is here but not here.

"We have a new fresh design team on board. We are focusing on young, realistic energy for the future; this is really Margiela for the year 2015."

However, the team's effort at the spring shows, running through October 8, failed to win over critics, with the most powerful among them, the International Herald Tribune's Suzy Menkes, even calling the paper-themed clothes "tragic."