No contradiction is in store next summer for the well-dressed man who dons eco-friendly fabrics while harking back to the 1950s, Milan's catwalks decreed on Saturday.

Donatella Versace coiffed her models in retro hair to go with body-hugging jackets and pencil pants, dressing or subtly undressing them in black-and-white Vasarely, rockabilly style.

But the day belonged to Dolce & Gabbana, marking their 20-year partnership with a live accompaniment by singer Annie Lennox, as movie stars Morgan Freeman and Matthew McConaughey enjoyed the show.

Setting a theme of "Sicilian sensuality" in a nod to the native land of Domenico Dolce, the collection evoked southern Italian peasants and Sicilian fishermen.

Ultra-light washed silks, raw fabrics like burlap, and the perennial jeans in all of their degraded forms - prewashed, torn, sand-blasted - took pride of place.

Next summer's de rigueur sandals will feature rope or braided leather - also to be found in outsized beach bags for towels, sun cream, mask and flippers.

Shirts are poplin or washed cotton, in white, black, cream or sand.

Stripes abound, from boxer shorts to bathrobes to pyjamas.

Fringes were everywhere too, decorating coats, motorcycle jackets and trousers. Sophisticated fabrics with iridescent highlights lent a rebellious air to some suits, while others were more staid in leather or raw cotton.

American designer Calvin Klein, back in Milan after a lengthy absence, proposed classic lines in startling colours, from indigo to green, while staying true to his trademark greys.

Burberry focussed on leather and suede in tight trousers and finely tailored jackets.

The British fashion house carried its show live on the Internet, offering several items for sale and delivery within two months - a revolution for a house founded in 1856.

The men's spring/summer 2011 shows continue Sunday with collections by Bottega Veneta, Emporio Armani, Prada and Roberto Cavalli.