Milan fashion moves downtown
Tuesday 21 September 2010
Milan fashion week, sandwiched between those of London and Paris, opens Wednesday with catwalks in the centre of Italy's financial hub instead of out in the suburbs.
No fewer than 78 fashion houses will show their ready-to-wear collections for spring/summer 2011.
As the shows move downtown - to the 16th-century Palazzo dei Giureconsulti and three other venues - they will also be broadcast live on big screens at four locations in the northern industrial city.
The extravaganza that used to be held at an exhibition centre northwest of Milan will cover six days, contrasting with a frantic long weekend in February, when American Vogue editor Anna Wintour threw organisers into a tailspin by indicating that she could spare only three days for Milan.
Top fashion houses concentrated their shows over those days, leaving smaller outfits in the cold with far less media coverage.
At the time, Milan mayor Letizia Moratti huffed: "No one, even if her name is Anna Wintour, can make or unmake our fashion calendar."
Wintour, the inspiration for the book and subsequent film "The Devil Wears Prada" featuring the fearsome head of a fashion magazine, is regarded by many as the most influential person in the industry.
"People were fed up with this senseless programme," said Mario Boselli, head of Italy's Fashion Chamber.
"For the first time we managed to get all the designers around a table, including three non-members - Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Marni - and together we worked out a more balanced week," he said.
Gucci will kick off the pageant on Wednesday, followed by Fendi and Prada on Thursday, Moschino, Gianfranco Ferre and Versace on Friday, Bottega Veneta and Emporio Armani on Saturday, Dolce & Gabbana and Salvatore Ferragamo on Sunday, and Roberto Cavalli and Giorgio Armani on Monday.
Organisers have come under fire for excluding collections of lingerie, swimwear and other labels designed for larger women.
"It was a difficult but necessary decision," Boselli said. "Some labels just weren't in line with what ready-to-wear week should be. We wanted to champion the values of creativity to reaffirm Milan's role in the world."
Notably, Elena Miro has not been invited to repeat a five-year-old tradition of opening the week with her creations for larger sizes.
She will stage a show on Wednesday outside of the official calendar, saying it would be a "first international audition for size 40 (10 US, 12 UK) and up."
Another innovation will be free bike-sharing for journalists covering Fashion Week.
Life & Style blogs
A daily walk 'can add seven years to your life'
Your best friend as a teenager can determine how healthy you are as an adult
iPhone 6s and 6s Plus battery capacity will be weaker than predecessors, Apple leaks suggest
Pansexual: What is it - and when did the term gain popularity?
What do the emojis on Snapchat mean?
- 1 Kermit the Frog has a new girlfriend named Denise
- 2 The excuses your boss is most likely to believe when you call in sick
- 3 Moscow voted the world's unfriendliest city
- 4 I'm pansexual – here are the five biggest misconceptions about my sexuality
- 5 More than 11,000 Icelanders offer to house Syrian refugees to help European crisis
£18000 - £22000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is an exciting opportunity...
£10400 - £14000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Are you outgoing, ambitious, en...
£22000 - £38000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: The role is a mixture of office...
£17100 - £20900 per annum: Recruitment Genius: One of the North West's leading...