More relaxed mood prevails at Galliano own-label show

John Galliano - the label, not the man - presented its fall-winter collection on Sunday in the intimate surroundings of a Parisian salon, and in a far more relaxed atmosphere, after a week that saw the spectacular fall from grace of the iconic British couturier.

Eschewing Galliano's signature passion for bigger-than-life theatrics, the lower-key presentation saw some of the world's top models emerge from a tall mirrored door into two adjoining drawing rooms to pose in a limited number of outfits with an unmistakeable 1920s flavour.

Notable among the guests was Sidney Toledano, chief executive of Christian Dior, which abruptly fired Galliano - facing trial later this spring for alleged anti-Semitic remarks - on day one of Paris fashion week last Tuesday.

"In trying times, you have to move forward and stay the course," Toledano told AFP, adding that while he has never missed a Galliano show, he wanted this time "to be here to support the teams" which put the looks together.

Christian Dior, a cornerstone of French tycoon Bernard Arnault's global luxury goods empire, holds a majority stake in the John Galliano label.

The mood on Sunday was a world away from the funereal atmosphere that haunted the full-scale Christian Dior show on Friday where the venerable Paris fashion house resolutely distanced itself from its chief designer of 15 years.

Tactfully left unstated, too, was the fact that Sunday's elegant venue on Avenue Foch was the Hotel Blumenthal, built in 1900 for a rich American leather merchant and art collector of German Jewish heritage.

But while the 50-year-old designer is reportedly getting help for alcoholism at an exclusive substance abuse clinic in Arizona, his imagination - and his fascination with times past - very much informed the designs.

As Galliano would have had it, the teenaged American model Karlie Kloss opened the presentation in a checkered grey tweed jacket, mottled skirt cut just below the knee, and tall black felt hat.

More tweeds and furs followed, belted tightly at the waist, testifying to Galliano's strong sense of tailoring, with evening wear distinguished by sheer flowing fabrics in deep violet and somber green shades.

No doubt relieved not to walk a runway for a change, the models struck elegant poses against such trappings of 1920s decor as teddy bears, rocking horses, hunting-dog paintings and Louis XVI chairs.

Gibraltar-born and London-bred Galliano, 50, was seen by many as one of the finest designers of his generation before he was grilled by police over a complaint that he uttered anti-Semitic remarks at a chic Paris cafe.

Then a mobile-phone video emerged in which he is seen at the same cafe, La Perle, apparently drunk and saying "I love Hitler" - prompting Dior to sack him as prosecutors announced he would be charged over his purported remarks.

Through his lawyers in London, Galliano apologised for his conduct, but firmly denied being anti-Semitic.

But as he reportedly sought help for alcoholism - incidentally, only fresh fruit juice was served at Sunday's presentation - his future in fashion remains very much in question.

Equally unknown is who will follow him at the creative helm of Dior or the label that bears his name. Asked by AFP what thought has gone into naming a successor, Taledano just waved his hands and flashed a beguiling smile.

In other shows on Sunday, Phoebe Philo at Celine - another brand in the Arnault stable - did not fail to disappoint her many fans with a tastefully elegant fall-winter collection that blended leather and fur.

Hermes, the family-owned house that Arnault wants to acquire, unveiled its first collection from its new designer Christophe Lemaire, formerly at Lacoste, at its new Paris boutique situated in a one-time swimming pool.

Alexis Mabille meanwhile sent out styles for an insouciant and eclectic woman that mixed vintage and contemporary ideas and drew inspiration from the young couturier's far-flung travels.

News
Kenny Ireland, pictured in 2010.
peopleActor, from House of Cards and Benidorm, was 68
News
A scene from the video shows students mock rioting
newsSchool leaver's YouTube video features staging of a playground gun massacre
Travel
travel
Environment
View from the Llanberis Track to the mountain lake Llyn
Du’r Arddu
environmentA large chunk of Mount Snowdon, in north Wales, is up for sale
PROMOTED VIDEO
Life and Style
ebookA wonderful selection of salads, starters and mains featuring venison, grouse and other game
Voices
A family sit and enjoy a quiet train journey
voicesForcing us to overhear dull phone conversations is an offensive act, says Simon Kelner
Arts and Entertainment
The cast of The Big Bang Theory in a still from the show
tvBig Bang Theory filming delayed by contract dispute over actors' pay
Sport
England celebrate a wicket for Moeen Ali
sportMoeen Ali stars with five wickets as Cook's men level India series
News
Morrissey pictured in 2013
people
Life and Style
The director of Wall-E Andrew Stanton with Angus MacLane's Lego model
gadgetsDesign made in Pixar animator’s spare time could get retail release
News
peopleGuitarist, who played with Aerosmith, Lou Reed and Alice Cooper among others, was 71
Travel
travel
News
Robyn Lawley
people
News
people
News
i100  ... he was into holy war way before it was on trend
Arts and Entertainment
High-flyer: Chris Pratt in 'Guardians of the Galaxy'
filmThe film is surprisingly witty, but could do with taking itself more seriously, says Geoffrey Macnab
News
people
Life and Style
food + drinkVegetarians enjoy food as much as anyone else, writes Susan Elkin
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Fashion

    VB.Net Developer - £40k - Surrey - WANTED ASAP

    £35000 - £40000 per annum + competitive: Progressive Recruitment: .Mid Level V...

    Digitakl Business Analyst, Slough

    £40000 - £45000 per annum + Competitive Benefits: Progressive Recruitment: Dig...

    Mechanical Estimator: Nuclear Energy - Sellafield

    £40000 - £50000 per annum + Car, Medical, Fuel + More!: Progressive Recruitmen...

    Dynamics NAV Techno-Functional Consultant

    £50000 - £60000 per annum + benefits: Progressive Recruitment: An absolutely o...

    Day In a Page

    Save the tiger: Tiger, tiger burning less brightly as numbers plummet

    Tiger, tiger burning less brightly

    When William Blake wrote his famous poem there were probably more than 100,000 tigers in the wild. These days they probably number around 3,200
    A tale of two presidents: George W Bush downs his paintbrush to pen father’s life story

    A tale of two presidents

    George W Bush downs his paintbrush to pen father’s life story
    Save the tiger: The day America’s love of backyard tigers led to a horrific bloodbath

    The day America’s love of backyard tigers led to a horrific bloodbath

    With only six per cent of the US population of these amazing big cats held in zoos, the Zanesville incident in 2011 was inevitable
    Samuel Beckett's biographer reveals secrets of the writer's time as a French Resistance spy

    How Samuel Beckett became a French Resistance spy

    As this year's Samuel Beckett festival opens in Enniskillen, James Knowlson, recalls how the Irish writer risked his life for liberty and narrowly escaped capture by the Gestapo
    We will remember them: relatives still honour those who fought in the Great War

    We will remember them

    Relatives still honour those who fought in the Great War
    Star Wars Episode VII is being shot on film - and now Kodak is launching a last-ditch bid to keep celluloid alive

    Kodak's last-ditch bid to keep celluloid alive

    Director J J Abrams and a few digital refuseniks shoot movies on film. Simon Usborne wonders what the fuss is about
    Once stilted and melodramatic, Hollywood is giving acting in video games a makeover

    Acting in video games gets a makeover

    David Crookes meets two of the genre's most popular voices
    Could our smartphones soon be diagnosing diseases via Health Kit and Google Fit?

    Could smartphones soon be diagnosing diseases?

    Health Kit and Google Fit have been described as "the beginning of a health revolution"
    Ryanair has turned on the 'charm offensive' but can we learn to love the cut-price carrier again?

    Can we learn to love Ryanair again?

    Four recent travellers give their verdicts on the carrier's improved customer service
    Billionaire founder of Spanx launches range of jeans that offers

    Spanx launches range of jeans

    The jeans come in two styles, multiple cuts and three washes and will go on sale in the UK in October
    10 best over-ear headphones

    Aural pleasure: 10 best over-ear headphones

    Listen to your favourite tracks with this selection, offering everything from lambskin earmuffs to stainless steel
    Commonwealth Games 2014: David Millar ready to serve up gold for his beloved Scotland in the end

    Commonwealth Games

    David Millar ready to serve up gold for his beloved Scotland in the end
    UCI Mountain Bike World Cup 2014: Downhill all the way to the top for the Atherton siblings

    UCI Mountain Bike World Cup

    Downhill all the way to the top for the Atherton siblings
    Save the tiger: The animals bred for bones on China’s tiger farms

    The animals bred for bones on China’s tiger farms

    The big cats kept in captivity to perform for paying audiences and then, when dead, their bodies used to fortify wine
    A former custard factory, a Midlands bog and a Leeds cemetery all included in top 50 hidden spots in the UK

    A former custard factory, a Midlands bog and a Leeds cemetery

    Introducing the top 50 hidden spots in Britain